[AT] Sickle Mower Question

Dick Day ddss at telebeep.com
Fri Jun 12 05:22:46 PDT 2009


Thanks. I really like the "same number of fingers" idea :)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Len Rugen" <rugenl at yahoo.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] Sickle Mower Question


They are "sections", the plates are probably hold downs, the parts that
stay on "guards".  I think what you are calling the bar is the sickle.
What "we" cal the bar is the whole assembly.

I'm not familiar with that model number, but there should be a way to
disconnect the sickle at the driven end.  With the bar flat on fairly
clear ground, the sickle should slide out toward the driven end.  Watch
your fingers, use large screw driver or punch for pushing and prying.
You want to have the same number of fingers when your are done.

You can cut rivets with a cold chisel pretty easily and a angle grinder
would probably work.  If you have the sickle out, the way we do it is to
put the section to be removed between your vise jaws, you want the
sickle bar to be on one vise jaw (the rear one).  Then just hit the
section with a hammer, that shears off the rivets nicely.  Don't hit
it's neighbors.

Riveting isn't that bad.  You really need a ball peen hammer, just start
tapping, not hitting that hard, and make your rivet look like a squished
cookie.

There are certain words you need to know to work on a mower, but even
city slickers know them.

These were designed to mow when on the ground, ditch mowing won't be
pretty, but it works.  You probably don't need to run it at 540, we tend
to idle along at about half speed ditch mowing.  If you hit a rock,
bottle or steel parts, fewer parts break at slower speed.  Be very
careful, you can bend the bar mowing ditches easier than you'd think.
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