[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

Bob McNitt nysports at frontiernet.net
Wed Jun 3 13:39:44 PDT 2009


Thanks, Steve. My next step is to check the main drive spindle.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Offiler" <soffiler at gmail.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question


> I'm not Larry but here's some ideas:
>
> Since you've checked blade straightness and balance, then even
> replaced the blades, with no change in the vibration (right?) then it
> seems safe to rule out the blades.  The vibration is coming from
> something spinning.  This leaves spindles and pulleys.  If all the
> spindle bearings are good (beyond "no play" have you checked that each
> spindle runs nice and smooth, turned by hand, belt removed?) then it
> still could be a bent spindle.  The final piece of the puzzle in the
> spinning parts is the pulleys.  Can't say I've heard of a pulley
> failing but who knows; maybe one has become bent, lost a small piece
> of itself somehow, has a hunk of stuff stuck to it...  Last comment,
> I've not heard of any type of belt failure that would create vibration
> and I'm having a hard time picturing any sort of belt problem that
> would not simply result in a busted belt.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Steve O.
>
> On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 8:03 PM, Bob McNitt <nysports at frontiernet.net> 
> wrote:
>> Larry -
>>
>> You may be the go-to guy for my question on a 42-inch Craftsman mower I 
>> have
>> that has developed a vibration in the deck when the blades are engaged 
>> that
>> wasn't there in the past. I checked the blades and they're straight and
>> balanced. No play in the spindles either. I even put new blades on to 
>> ensure
>> it wasn't them, but I still get the vibration. It doesn't vibrate when 
>> the
>> deck isn't engaged. A friend told me to try a new drive belt, which I
>> haven't yet since the current one seems fine. Could it be the main drive
>> shaft/wheel?
>>
>> Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Bob in CNY
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Larry Goss" <rlgoss at insightbb.com>
>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:32 AM
>> Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>>
>>
>>
>> Some hydros are sealed at the factory and have no way of servicing them.
>>
>> Larry
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Recentjester at aol.com
>> Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 6:58
>> Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>>
>>> are all hydro tranies the same? I have a sears one an it seems a
>>> little
>>> slow at times. It is a gray machine with a 19 horse opposed
>>> briggs. never saw
>>> any way to change the fluid
>>>
>>>
>>> In a message dated 6/2/2009 6:24:32 A.M. Central Daylight
>>> Time,
>>> soffiler at gmail.com writes:
>>>
>>> Interesting idea. At this point Carter & Gruenewald has
>>> my money and
>>> the new valve will be on my doorstep momentarily. Had
>>> a nice chat
>>> with Ken Updike to boot. The old valve can become a
>>> scienceexperiment.
>>>
>>> Steve O.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:41 PM, Mike Meulenberg
>>> <msm10301 at juno.com> wrote:
>>> > What about using a high quality metal epoxy to reconnect
>>> the valves once
>>> you machine them apart? I see now that they make an epoxy
>>> that will hold
>>> copper water pipe fittings in place with out sweating.
>>> What would you have
>>> to lose other than the $5-6 for the epoxy. Mike M
>>> >
>>> > ---------- Original Message ----------
>>> > From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
>>> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> > Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>>> > Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 13:53:03 -0400
>>> >
>>> > Stephen Offiler wrote:
>>> >> Hi SteveW:
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks for the inputs; I appreciate it. Everybody is
>>> telling me they
>>> >> are PRV's. It's the shop manual that is calling
>>> them "check valves";
>>> >> wouldn't they know? They appear to function as I'd
>>> expect a
>>> >> check-valve... the spring pressure on the ball is
>>> pretty light, so
>>> >> it'll flow pretty easily with a small pressure
>>> differential in one
>>> >> direction, and close up tight going back the other
>>> way. I'd expect a
>>> >> PRV to have a much heavier spring, and to hold closed
>>> until the
>>> >> setpoint is reached. My problem valve, PRV or
>>> not, is located in a
>>> >> port on the pump that leads directly to a line to a
>>> distribution>> block, and thus appears that they must
>>> normally flow in order to
>>> >> pressurize that block. I guess my point is that,
>>> while hydraulics are
>>> >> NOT one of my specialties, these things do appear to me
>>> to be
>>> >> check-valves. I think perhaps the saving grace in
>>> the distinction
>>> >> between the two types of valves is that this spring is
>>> pretty light,
>>> >> so I probably have a shot at getting it back together,
>>> whereas a heavy
>>> >> spring would be a bigger struggle. And to
>>> think... at first I was
>>> >> so pleased to learn how easy it was to access the area,
>>> and the
>>> >> specific component, that was the root cause of my
>>> mystery leak...
>>> >>
>>> >> Best regards,
>>> >> SteveO.
>>> >
>>> > If they are the ones on top of the hydro they are PRVs
>>> for the charge
>>> > pump. They are not very strong but they retain some
>>> pressure in the pump
>>> > to keep it operating without cavitation. They do act as
>>> a check valve in
>>> > that they don't allow the hydro fluid to return through them.
>>> >
>>> > If you have a lathe and a TIG they can be rebuilt. You
>>> need to cut some
>>> > of the crimp off then remove the shell. To reinstall the
>>> shell you can
>>> > do a couple things. One is to TIG a short collar onto
>>> the shell and
>>> > crimp the shell back on. I have also cut the bottom of
>>> the valve enough
>>> > that the original shell could just be roll crimped back on.
>>> >
>>> > --
>>> > Steve Williams
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