[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

Wed Jun 3 04:48:22 PDT 2009

I'm not Larry but here's some ideas:

Since you've checked blade straightness and balance, then even
replaced the blades, with no change in the vibration (right?) then it
seems safe to rule out the blades.  The vibration is coming from
something spinning.  This leaves spindles and pulleys.  If all the
spindle bearings are good (beyond "no play" have you checked that each
spindle runs nice and smooth, turned by hand, belt removed?) then it
still could be a bent spindle.  The final piece of the puzzle in the
spinning parts is the pulleys.  Can't say I've heard of a pulley
failing but who knows; maybe one has become bent, lost a small piece
of itself somehow, has a hunk of stuff stuck to it...  Last comment,
I've not heard of any type of belt failure that would create vibration
and I'm having a hard time picturing any sort of belt problem that
would not simply result in a busted belt.

Good luck.

Steve O.

On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 8:03 PM, Bob McNitt <nysports at frontiernet.net> wrote:
> Larry -
>
> You may be the go-to guy for my question on a 42-inch Craftsman mower I have
> that has developed a vibration in the deck when the blades are engaged that
> wasn't there in the past. I checked the blades and they're straight and
> balanced. No play in the spindles either. I even put new blades on to ensure
> it wasn't them, but I still get the vibration. It doesn't vibrate when the
> deck isn't engaged. A friend told me to try a new drive belt, which I
> haven't yet since the current one seems fine. Could it be the main drive
> shaft/wheel?
>
> Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
>
> Bob in CNY
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Goss" <rlgoss at insightbb.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>
>
>
> Some hydros are sealed at the factory and have no way of servicing them.
>
> Larry
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Recentjester at aol.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 6:58
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
> To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
>> are all hydro tranies the same? I have a sears one an it seems a
>> little
>> slow at times. It is a gray machine with a 19 horse opposed
>> briggs. never saw
>> any way to change the fluid
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 6/2/2009 6:24:32 A.M. Central Daylight
>> Time,
>> soffiler at gmail.com writes:
>>
>> Interesting idea. At this point Carter & Gruenewald has
>> my money and
>> the new valve will be on my doorstep momentarily. Had
>> a nice chat
>> with Ken Updike to boot. The old valve can become a
>> scienceexperiment.
>>
>> Steve O.
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:41 PM, Mike Meulenberg
>> <msm10301 at juno.com> wrote:
>> > What about using a high quality metal epoxy to reconnect
>> the valves once
>> you machine them apart? I see now that they make an epoxy
>> that will hold
>> copper water pipe fittings in place with out sweating.
>> What would you have
>> to lose other than the $5-6 for the epoxy. Mike M
>> >
>> > ---------- Original Message ----------
>> > From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
>> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> > Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>> > Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 13:53:03 -0400
>> >
>> > Stephen Offiler wrote:
>> >> Hi SteveW:
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for the inputs; I appreciate it. Everybody is
>> telling me they
>> >> are PRV's. It's the shop manual that is calling
>> them "check valves";
>> >> wouldn't they know? They appear to function as I'd
>> expect a
>> >> check-valve... the spring pressure on the ball is
>> pretty light, so
>> >> it'll flow pretty easily with a small pressure
>> differential in one
>> >> direction, and close up tight going back the other
>> way. I'd expect a
>> >> PRV to have a much heavier spring, and to hold closed
>> until the
>> >> setpoint is reached. My problem valve, PRV or
>> not, is located in a
>> >> port on the pump that leads directly to a line to a
>> distribution>> block, and thus appears that they must
>> normally flow in order to
>> >> pressurize that block. I guess my point is that,
>> while hydraulics are
>> >> NOT one of my specialties, these things do appear to me
>> to be
>> >> check-valves. I think perhaps the saving grace in
>> the distinction
>> >> between the two types of valves is that this spring is
>> pretty light,
>> >> so I probably have a shot at getting it back together,
>> whereas a heavy
>> >> spring would be a bigger struggle. And to
>> think... at first I was
>> >> so pleased to learn how easy it was to access the area,
>> and the
>> >> specific component, that was the root cause of my
>> mystery leak...
>> >>
>> >> Best regards,
>> >> SteveO.
>> >
>> > If they are the ones on top of the hydro they are PRVs
>> for the charge
>> > pump. They are not very strong but they retain some
>> pressure in the pump
>> > to keep it operating without cavitation. They do act as
>> a check valve in
>> > that they don't allow the hydro fluid to return through them.
>> >
>> > If you have a lathe and a TIG they can be rebuilt. You
>> need to cut some
>> > of the crimp off then remove the shell. To reinstall the
>> shell you can
>> > do a couple things. One is to TIG a short collar onto
>> the shell and
>> > crimp the shell back on. I have also cut the bottom of
>> the valve enough
>> > that the original shell could just be roll crimped back on.
>> >
>> > --
>> > Steve Williams
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