[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

Larry Goss rlgoss at insightbb.com
Tue Jun 2 07:32:19 PDT 2009


Some hydros are sealed at the factory and have no way of servicing them.

Larry

----- Original Message -----
From: Recentjester at aol.com
Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 6:58
Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
To: at at lists.antique-tractor.com

> are all hydro tranies the same? I have a sears one an it seems a 
> little  
> slow at times. It is a gray machine with a 19 horse opposed 
> briggs. never saw  
> any way to change the fluid
>  
>  
> In a message dated 6/2/2009 6:24:32 A.M. Central Daylight 
> Time,  
> soffiler at gmail.com writes:
> 
> Interesting idea.  At this point Carter & Gruenewald has 
> my  money and
> the new valve will be on my doorstep momentarily.  Had 
> a  nice chat
> with Ken Updike to boot.  The old valve can become a  
> scienceexperiment.
> 
> Steve O.
> 
> On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:41 PM,  Mike Meulenberg 
> <msm10301 at juno.com> wrote:
> > What about using a  high quality metal epoxy to reconnect 
> the valves once 
> you machine them apart?  I see now that they make an epoxy 
> that will hold 
> copper water pipe fittings in  place with out sweating. 
> What would you have 
> to lose other than the $5-6 for  the epoxy. Mike M
> >
> > ---------- Original Message  ----------
> > From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
> > To:  Antique tractor email discussion group  
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet  1812 Hydro question
> > Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 13:53:03  -0400
> >
> > Stephen Offiler wrote:
> >> Hi  SteveW:
> >>
> >> Thanks for the inputs; I appreciate it.  Everybody is 
> telling me they
> >> are PRV's.  It's the shop  manual that is calling 
> them "check valves";
> >> wouldn't they know?  They appear to function as I'd 
> expect a
> >> check-valve... the  spring pressure on the ball is 
> pretty light, so
> >> it'll flow pretty  easily with a small pressure 
> differential in one
> >> direction, and  close up tight going back the other 
> way.  I'd expect a
> >> PRV to  have a much heavier spring, and to hold closed 
> until the
> >> setpoint  is reached.  My problem valve, PRV or 
> not, is located in a
> >>  port on the pump that leads directly to a line to a 
> distribution>>  block, and thus appears that they must 
> normally flow in order to
> >>  pressurize that block.  I guess my point is that, 
> while hydraulics  are
> >> NOT one of my specialties, these things do appear to me 
> to  be
> >> check-valves.  I think perhaps the saving grace in 
> the  distinction
> >> between the two types of valves is that this spring is  
> pretty light,
> >> so I probably have a shot at getting it back  together, 
> whereas a heavy
> >> spring would be a bigger struggle.  And to 
> think...  at first I was
> >> so pleased to  learn how easy it was to access the area, 
> and the
> >> specific  component, that was the root cause of my 
> mystery  leak...
> >>
> >> Best regards,
> >>  SteveO.
> >
> > If they are the ones on top of the hydro they are PRVs  
> for the charge
> > pump. They are not very strong but they retain some  
> pressure in the pump
> > to keep it operating without cavitation. They do  act as 
> a check valve in
> > that they don't allow the hydro fluid to  return through them.
> >
> > If you have a lathe and a TIG they can be  rebuilt. You 
> need to cut some
> > of the crimp off then remove the shell.  To reinstall the 
> shell you can
> > do a couple things. One is to TIG a  short collar onto 
> the shell and
> > crimp the shell back on. I have also  cut the bottom of 
> the valve enough
> > that the original shell could just  be roll crimped back on.
> >
> > --
> > Steve Williams
> >  _______________________________________________
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> >
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