[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

[Recentjester at aol.com]

are all hydro tranies the same? I have a sears one an it seems a little  
slow at times. It is a gray machine with a 19 horse opposed briggs. never saw  
any way to change the fluid
 
 
In a message dated 6/2/2009 6:24:32 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
soffiler at gmail.com writes:

Interesting idea.  At this point Carter & Gruenewald has my  money and
the new valve will be on my doorstep momentarily.  Had a  nice chat
with Ken Updike to boot.  The old valve can become a  science
experiment.

Steve O.

On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:41 PM,  Mike Meulenberg <msm10301 at juno.com> wrote:
> What about using a  high quality metal epoxy to reconnect the valves once 
you machine them apart?  I see now that they make an epoxy that will hold 
copper water pipe fittings in  place with out sweating. What would you have 
to lose other than the $5-6 for  the epoxy. Mike M
>
> ---------- Original Message  ----------
> From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
> To:  Antique tractor email discussion group  
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet  1812 Hydro question
> Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 13:53:03  -0400
>
> Stephen Offiler wrote:
>> Hi  SteveW:
>>
>> Thanks for the inputs; I appreciate it.  Everybody is telling me they
>> are PRV's.  It's the shop  manual that is calling them "check valves";
>> wouldn't they know?  They appear to function as I'd expect a
>> check-valve... the  spring pressure on the ball is pretty light, so
>> it'll flow pretty  easily with a small pressure differential in one
>> direction, and  close up tight going back the other way.  I'd expect a
>> PRV to  have a much heavier spring, and to hold closed until the
>> setpoint  is reached.  My problem valve, PRV or not, is located in a
>>  port on the pump that leads directly to a line to a distribution
>>  block, and thus appears that they must normally flow in order to
>>  pressurize that block.  I guess my point is that, while hydraulics  are
>> NOT one of my specialties, these things do appear to me to  be
>> check-valves.  I think perhaps the saving grace in the  distinction
>> between the two types of valves is that this spring is  pretty light,
>> so I probably have a shot at getting it back  together, whereas a heavy
>> spring would be a bigger struggle.  And to think...  at first I was
>> so pleased to  learn how easy it was to access the area, and the
>> specific  component, that was the root cause of my mystery  leak...
>>
>> Best regards,
>>  SteveO.
>
> If they are the ones on top of the hydro they are PRVs  for the charge
> pump. They are not very strong but they retain some  pressure in the pump
> to keep it operating without cavitation. They do  act as a check valve in
> that they don't allow the hydro fluid to  return through them.
>
> If you have a lathe and a TIG they can be  rebuilt. You need to cut some
> of the crimp off then remove the shell.  To reinstall the shell you can
> do a couple things. One is to TIG a  short collar onto the shell and
> crimp the shell back on. I have also  cut the bottom of the valve enough
> that the original shell could just  be roll crimped back on.
>
> --
> Steve Williams
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