[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

[Stephen Offiler]

Interesting idea.  At this point Carter & Gruenewald has my money and
the new valve will be on my doorstep momentarily.  Had a nice chat
with Ken Updike to boot.  The old valve can become a science
experiment.

Steve O.

On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:41 PM, Mike Meulenberg <msm10301 at juno.com> wrote:
> What about using a high quality metal epoxy to reconnect the valves once you machine them apart? I see now that they make an epoxy that will hold copper water pipe fittings in place with out sweating. What would you have to lose other than the $5-6 for the epoxy. Mike M
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
> Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 13:53:03 -0400
>
> Stephen Offiler wrote:
>> Hi SteveW:
>>
>> Thanks for the inputs; I appreciate it.  Everybody is telling me they
>> are PRV's.  It's the shop manual that is calling them "check valves";
>> wouldn't they know?  They appear to function as I'd expect a
>> check-valve... the spring pressure on the ball is pretty light, so
>> it'll flow pretty easily with a small pressure differential in one
>> direction, and close up tight going back the other way.  I'd expect a
>> PRV to have a much heavier spring, and to hold closed until the
>> setpoint is reached.  My problem valve, PRV or not, is located in a
>> port on the pump that leads directly to a line to a distribution
>> block, and thus appears that they must normally flow in order to
>> pressurize that block.  I guess my point is that, while hydraulics are
>> NOT one of my specialties, these things do appear to me to be
>> check-valves.  I think perhaps the saving grace in the distinction
>> between the two types of valves is that this spring is pretty light,
>> so I probably have a shot at getting it back together, whereas a heavy
>> spring would be a bigger struggle.    And to think...  at first I was
>> so pleased to learn how easy it was to access the area, and the
>> specific component, that was the root cause of my mystery leak...
>>
>> Best regards,
>> SteveO.
>
> If they are the ones on top of the hydro they are PRVs for the charge
> pump. They are not very strong but they retain some pressure in the pump
> to keep it operating without cavitation. They do act as a check valve in
> that they don't allow the hydro fluid to return through them.
>
> If you have a lathe and a TIG they can be rebuilt. You need to cut some
> of the crimp off then remove the shell. To reinstall the shell you can
> do a couple things. One is to TIG a short collar onto the shell and
> crimp the shell back on. I have also cut the bottom of the valve enough
> that the original shell could just be roll crimped back on.
>
> --
> Steve Williams
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Click now to find great remedies for hangovers!
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsJQcRdYR692mTL1eZVwrhmv2FmenR4ilPKuVZnpU56EigkqKm7a04/
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>