[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

[Stephen Offiler]

H.L., I hear that people have had success opening up the crimp by
carefully cutting it on a lathe.  I can do that.  Getting it back
together requires welding... I don't think I can do that with my stick
welder!  But hey perhaps I can braze it.  The spring pressure is not
very high, solder might even do the job.

SO


On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 11:06 AM, H. L. Staples
<hlstaples at mcloudteleco.com> wrote:
>
> With your mechanical experience, I think I would locate a new valve, then
> open the old one to see if it can be repaired, if not buy the new one and
> you are on the road to mowing.
>
> Some time the crimped area can be straightened enough for disassembly. You
> might need to heat the lip after opening to soften the metal to be able to
> re crimp.
>
> H. L.
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Stephen Offiler
> Date: 6/1/2009 7:45:00 AM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>
> Super!  Thanks BD!  I am not looking forward to the (gulp) $100 tab at
> the Cub Cadet parts counter, but I prefer a new valve to chasing down
> a used one.  Sounds like Paul Bell really knows this stuff.  I greatly
> appreciate you contacting him on my behalf!
>
> Best regards,
> Steve O.
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 6:21 AM, DBigdog <DBigdog at columbus.rr.com> wrote:
>> Steve,
>>    Paul Bell is quite knowledgible on cub cadets so I forwarded your
>> question to him.  His response is:
>>
>> It's time to replace the valves. Actually, they are pressure relief valves
>
>> and are an "automatic" valve in that they automatically dump the pressure
>> when the tractor is shut down, and it will then allow you to move or push
>> the tractor. The earlier versions had a button in the center where his has
> a
>> vent, and there was a lever to move that pushed the buttons down to dump
> the
>> pressure. When they start leaking it time for a replacement. The "O" rings
>> are on the outside of the valve body and are to seal around it when it is
>> installed. Someone did post a so call fix or repair at one time, but it
>> involved using a lathe to open up the valve and the remove the plunger for
>> cleaning and repair, and then welding everything back up. It's better to
>> replace them, although new ones are pricey, but most people just look for
>> good used replacements. A new one is over $100, used ones are about
> $40-$50
>> a pair.
>>
>> BD
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Stephen Offiler
>> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
>> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 8:16 PM
>> Subject: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>>
>>
>> OK, it's not an antique farm tractor, guilty as charged.  It is a 1988
>> Cub Cadet (MTD built, a.k.a. "Cub Cadet Corp.") and it is a Model
>> 1812, which is built off the same tooling as a real IH Cub Cadet Model
>> 782 or so I am told.  I know all about the "IHCubCadet" online forum,
>> but nonetheless figured I'd start here on ATIS.  My goal is simply to
>> repair this machine so I can make the call whether I want to keep it
>> and mow with it, or sell it and buy a modern Zero-Turn-Radius mower.
>>
>> The basic problem is a leak from the hydraulic system.  It was serious
>> enough (say a quart every 15-30 minutes into the cake pan that I was
>> forced to rig underneath the machine) that I parked it a couple years
>> ago, and here I am today, living proof that occasionally you DO get
>> that Round Tuit.
>>
>> I've got the factory service manual, and it tells me I've got the
>> Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission.  With the sheetmetal stripped
>> from the steering wheel back, a good power-washing and running off a
>> remote battery connected with jumper cables, I found the source of the
>> leak, and mercifully it looks like something REALLY simple.  The pump
>> has two check valves threaded right into the top, very easy to access
>> with no further disassembly.  They are identical, and they each have a
>> tiny vent hole centered in the top.  The leak comes from this vent
>> hole.  The book says these valves cannot be serviced beyond
>> replacement of the o-rings, and removal and inspection of the faulty
>> valve shows that it is crimped together and cannot come apart, so I
>> agree with the book.
>>
>> My specific question is this:  if the check valve is leaking out the
>> tiny vent-hole in the top, does that mean O-ring replacement, or do I
>> need to chase down a whole new valve?
>>
>>
>> Thanks and best regards,
>> Steve O.
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