[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

H. L. Staples hlstaples at mcloudteleco.com
Mon Jun 1 08:06:03 PDT 2009


With your mechanical experience, I think I would locate a new valve, then
open the old one to see if it can be repaired, if not buy the new one and
you are on the road to mowing.  

Some time the crimped area can be straightened enough for disassembly. You
might need to heat the lip after opening to soften the metal to be able to
re crimp.

H. L. 
 
-------Original Message-------
 
From: Stephen Offiler
Date: 6/1/2009 7:45:00 AM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
 
Super!  Thanks BD!  I am not looking forward to the (gulp) $100 tab at
the Cub Cadet parts counter, but I prefer a new valve to chasing down
a used one.  Sounds like Paul Bell really knows this stuff.  I greatly
appreciate you contacting him on my behalf!
 
Best regards,
Steve O.
 
 
 
On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 6:21 AM, DBigdog <DBigdog at columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> Steve,
>    Paul Bell is quite knowledgible on cub cadets so I forwarded your
> question to him.  His response is:
>
> It's time to replace the valves. Actually, they are pressure relief valves

> and are an "automatic" valve in that they automatically dump the pressure
> when the tractor is shut down, and it will then allow you to move or push
> the tractor. The earlier versions had a button in the center where his has
a
> vent, and there was a lever to move that pushed the buttons down to dump
the
> pressure. When they start leaking it time for a replacement. The "O" rings
> are on the outside of the valve body and are to seal around it when it is
> installed. Someone did post a so call fix or repair at one time, but it
> involved using a lathe to open up the valve and the remove the plunger for
> cleaning and repair, and then welding everything back up. It's better to
> replace them, although new ones are pricey, but most people just look for
> good used replacements. A new one is over $100, used ones are about
$40-$50
> a pair.
>
> BD
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stephen Offiler
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 8:16 PM
> Subject: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>
>
> OK, it's not an antique farm tractor, guilty as charged.  It is a 1988
> Cub Cadet (MTD built, a.k.a. "Cub Cadet Corp.") and it is a Model
> 1812, which is built off the same tooling as a real IH Cub Cadet Model
> 782 or so I am told.  I know all about the "IHCubCadet" online forum,
> but nonetheless figured I'd start here on ATIS.  My goal is simply to
> repair this machine so I can make the call whether I want to keep it
> and mow with it, or sell it and buy a modern Zero-Turn-Radius mower.
>
> The basic problem is a leak from the hydraulic system.  It was serious
> enough (say a quart every 15-30 minutes into the cake pan that I was
> forced to rig underneath the machine) that I parked it a couple years
> ago, and here I am today, living proof that occasionally you DO get
> that Round Tuit.
>
> I've got the factory service manual, and it tells me I've got the
> Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission.  With the sheetmetal stripped
> from the steering wheel back, a good power-washing and running off a
> remote battery connected with jumper cables, I found the source of the
> leak, and mercifully it looks like something REALLY simple.  The pump
> has two check valves threaded right into the top, very easy to access
> with no further disassembly.  They are identical, and they each have a
> tiny vent hole centered in the top.  The leak comes from this vent
> hole.  The book says these valves cannot be serviced beyond
> replacement of the o-rings, and removal and inspection of the faulty
> valve shows that it is crimped together and cannot come apart, so I
> agree with the book.
>
> My specific question is this:  if the check valve is leaking out the
> tiny vent-hole in the top, does that mean O-ring replacement, or do I
> need to chase down a whole new valve?
>
>
> Thanks and best regards,
> Steve O.
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