[AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question

[Stephen Offiler]

Super!  Thanks BD!  I am not looking forward to the (gulp) $100 tab at
the Cub Cadet parts counter, but I prefer a new valve to chasing down
a used one.  Sounds like Paul Bell really knows this stuff.  I greatly
appreciate you contacting him on my behalf!

Best regards,
Steve O.



On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 6:21 AM, DBigdog <DBigdog at columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> Steve,
>    Paul Bell is quite knowledgible on cub cadets so I forwarded your
> question to him.  His response is:
>
> It's time to replace the valves. Actually, they are pressure relief valves,
> and are an "automatic" valve in that they automatically dump the pressure
> when the tractor is shut down, and it will then allow you to move or push
> the tractor. The earlier versions had a button in the center where his has a
> vent, and there was a lever to move that pushed the buttons down to dump the
> pressure. When they start leaking it time for a replacement. The "O" rings
> are on the outside of the valve body and are to seal around it when it is
> installed. Someone did post a so call fix or repair at one time, but it
> involved using a lathe to open up the valve and the remove the plunger for
> cleaning and repair, and then welding everything back up. It's better to
> replace them, although new ones are pricey, but most people just look for
> good used replacements. A new one is over $100, used ones are about $40-$50
> a pair.
>
> BD
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Stephen Offiler
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 8:16 PM
> Subject: [AT] OT(?) Cub Cadet 1812 Hydro question
>
>
> OK, it's not an antique farm tractor, guilty as charged.  It is a 1988
> Cub Cadet (MTD built, a.k.a. "Cub Cadet Corp.") and it is a Model
> 1812, which is built off the same tooling as a real IH Cub Cadet Model
> 782 or so I am told.  I know all about the "IHCubCadet" online forum,
> but nonetheless figured I'd start here on ATIS.  My goal is simply to
> repair this machine so I can make the call whether I want to keep it
> and mow with it, or sell it and buy a modern Zero-Turn-Radius mower.
>
> The basic problem is a leak from the hydraulic system.  It was serious
> enough (say a quart every 15-30 minutes into the cake pan that I was
> forced to rig underneath the machine) that I parked it a couple years
> ago, and here I am today, living proof that occasionally you DO get
> that Round Tuit.
>
> I've got the factory service manual, and it tells me I've got the
> Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission.  With the sheetmetal stripped
> from the steering wheel back, a good power-washing and running off a
> remote battery connected with jumper cables, I found the source of the
> leak, and mercifully it looks like something REALLY simple.  The pump
> has two check valves threaded right into the top, very easy to access
> with no further disassembly.  They are identical, and they each have a
> tiny vent hole centered in the top.  The leak comes from this vent
> hole.  The book says these valves cannot be serviced beyond
> replacement of the o-rings, and removal and inspection of the faulty
> valve shows that it is crimped together and cannot come apart, so I
> agree with the book.
>
> My specific question is this:  if the check valve is leaking out the
> tiny vent-hole in the top, does that mean O-ring replacement, or do I
> need to chase down a whole new valve?
>
>
> Thanks and best regards,
> Steve O.
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