[AT] internal block repair

[John Wilkens]

I'll have to agree with you George.  My solution would probably be 
another waste of time.    On another subject, last year I bought a 
pretty well-used Massey 135 gas that is sure proving to be a good 
tractor.  It is tough, has good speed selections, much tougher than 
my 8Ns and old Farmalls, and it out-blows all the other snowblowers 
in the neighborhood (with my old Canadian-made Lorenz 6' blower).  I 
sure have used it alot this winter!    Happy Hew Year!   John W.



At 11:42 AM 01/01/2009, you wrote:
>Hi John,
>
>Welding or brazing is a waste of time for this too common problem.  It's the
>weakest place on the C-60 engine and welding can't ever be as strong as the
>(too weak) original casting.  There are two different opinions regarding
>welding this area... Those who think they can weld the casting back to
>original strength, and those who know better.
>
>I have quite a few Cub engines that have this same problem.  The best
>solution is, of course, replacement of the busted block.  Without major help
>this high stress area will always be a problem.  Here's one approach I've
>used that seems to work OK for a working tractor, although not very pretty.
>
>http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=22754
>
>A friend has taken this concept a little farther and produced a nice looking
>support that he sells reasonably.
>
>http://www.kubkraft.com/
>
>George Willer
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-
> > bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of John Hall
> > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 8:15 AM
> > To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> > Subject: [AT] internal block repair
> >
> >  Trying to fix an oil leak on a Farmall Cub. In years past the block was
> > broken at the front right lower corner (not too uncommon depending on the
> > owners). The block was welded on the outside and where the pan bolts up---
> > no
> > welding on the inside. Now the weld has cracked where the pan lays so oil
> > gets inside the crack from inside the motor, runs down to the gasket and
> > then leaks to the outside. I am thinking of cleaning the inside with carb
> > cleaner and applying some JB Weld or Belzona to the crack. Then I am going
> > to coat the area with Glyptal. Then we will reinstall the pan using black
> > oil resistant silicone on the gasket. Other than pulling the engine and
> > re-welding the block (which is not an option for this Cubs owner) anybody
> > got any other ideas/suggestions?
> >
> > Happy New Year!
> >
> > John Hall
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>AT mailing list
>http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at


                    In the wide-open spaces of NE Oregon