[AT] internal block repair

[John Hall]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I am a little afraid of sticking a torch to it. I am afraid it will crack 
worse. I agree that heat is a good way to get the oil out. I had the 
transmission on my Titan cleaned in a vat at a machine shop and even then 
when I began preheating oil was bubbling out of the pores. I am considering 
using an heat gun to warm it a little.

The original crack is vertical but dead heads against a wider portion of the 
block where the pan goes. This provides a cavity for some sort of epoxy (I 
am leaning toward Belzona if I still have access to some--pricey stuff!) All 
I need is for the epoxy to create a diversion for the oil flow off the wall 
of the block.

Aside from being afraid of the heat making things worse, soldering and 
brazing, especially on vertical surfaces, are not my strong points.

Structurally speaking, after the block was welded, a custom bar was 
fabricated to go from where the front end bolts to the block to the clutch 
housing.

When we rebuilt dads Cub 3-4 years ago we changed engine blocks and had to 
have the replacement block welded inside and out before we sent it out for 
machine work. So far no leaks---all I can say is that guy really knew how to 
weld!

John Hall