[AT] Ford 8n Under Dash Resistor?

[Recentjester at aol.com]

just curious if hooking two coils in series would that  help?
 
 
In a message dated 1/7/2009 12:18:36 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
drupert at premier1.net writes:

The wire  is a good idea, Steve.  If the coil resistance were measured then  a
piece of wire with a resistance roughly 150% of that of the coil would be  a
good starting point.  The objective here is to get a voltage drop  across the
wire of 5 volts.  If the drop is greater than 5 volts then  shorten the wire
and if it is less than 5 then lengthen it.  If a guy  had a low ohm wire
wound potentiometer (variable resister) that might be  fun to try too -

Dudley
Snohomish, Washington

-----Original  Message-----
From:  at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On  Behalf Of Stephen Offiler
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 5:14 AM
To:  Antique tractor email discussion group
Subject: Re: [AT] Ford 8n Under Dash  Resistor?

3 volt coil... that's news to me, too.  Thanks  Mike.

If originality is not a goal, but reliability is, you can  sometimes
replicate the function of a wirewound resistor with a coil of  regular
wire.  Depending on the resistance value needed, it might or  might not
be practical.  Of course, the gage and length of the wire  are two
critical variables and some math needs to be done to get it  right.

Steve O.

On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 4:46 PM, Mike Sloane  <mikesloane at verizon.net> wrote:
> Ron Cook is correct - the  original resistor that sits behind and below
> the instrument cluster is  to reduce the voltage to the coil - the old
> front mounted  coil/distributor (found on very early 8Ns) is a 3 volt
> coil and it  will overheat and burn out if subjected to the full 8 volts
> for very  long.
>
> I have not had good luck with the replacement resistors  that I have
> purchased from places like Valu-Bilt - they fail "open"  after a short
> time in operation or even when the tractor is  stored.
>
> Mike
>
> william.neff.powell at comcast.net  wrote:
>> Hello,
>>
>> My brother-in-law let his 8n  sit for about two years. Before he let
>> it sit I had given it a  tune up, carb rebuild, points, condenser, oil
>> changes, plugs,  coil, and I had it set up for 8 volt, it was
>> previously 6 volts.  Took generator to local auto-electric shop and he
>> set the  regulator for 8 volts.
>>
>> So, it had been sitting  un-tarped for a while. I kept bugging him to
>> get it going. Last  Sunday I helped him start it. Bought a new 8 volt
>> battery, opened  the petcock and fuel started dripping out of the
>> carb. Took the  carb apart, lots of oxidation, was starting to
>> varnish. Cleaned  that out.
>>
>> It would not start after cleaning the carb.  Checked the spark, there
>> was none. Before bothering with take the  distributor off (which is a
>> pain as most 8n owners know) I checked  the coil line for voltage
>> using his headlight wire because he had  no voltmeter. No light.
>> Started tracing the wire back from the  switch, I had light at the
>> switch. Then I noticed a small block  under the dash that had a
>> wrapped wire resistor. The ignition  toggle switch (no key on tractor)
>> sent a wire to the resistor and  after the current went through the
>> resistor it was on to the  coil.
>>
>> So, that little resistor was rusted out and  useless... I bypassed the
>> resistor and the tractor started right  up.
>>
>> Is the resistor necessary? I'm guessing it's there  to stop the points
>> from frying up? Or it is in there to compensate  for an 8 volt system,
>> although I put in the 8 volt system  I  did not add the resistor. (Who
>> knows if it was 8 volt in the  past?)  If the resistor is necessary
>> where can I find  one?
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Will Powell  Pottstown, PA
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>>
>>
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