[AT] internal block repair

charliehill charliehill at embarqmail.com
Thu Jan 1 06:41:54 PST 2009


I agree that Belzona would most likely do the job.  I've told the story of 
the Detroit diesel block enough time that I don't want to repeat it but 
Epoxy is good stuff!

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecil Bearden" <crbearden at copper.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] internal block repair


> If the structural soundness is not really necessary, I would recommend
> just using JB weld or Belzona or Devcon.  In a vertical repair, JB weld
> will run.  You could tape some cardboard below the crack if it is
> horizontal to create a channel for the JB weld to sit in until it is
> set...  Then grind off what is not necessary with a dremel grinder or
> something larger.
>
> I say this because I have tried to repair blocks near oil galleries and
> just had the crack expand into the gallery..  Heating really can mess
> things up unless you take the entire block apart and heat it evenly.  I
> have done this on 2cyl blocks and on large truck rear end castings.  I
> heated and welded the part while it sat on a turkey fryer burner.  I let
> it get warm to about 300 deg, then brazed it with carbon arc and brass
> rod... This is a job best done outside in the winter...
>
> The truck rear end I welded is still in daily service after 22 years!!!!
>  I even welded up the pinion cage!!!
>
> Cecil in OKla
>
> charliehill wrote:
>> I'm not so sure you couldn't solder that up.  Heat the casting with a 
>> torch,
>> flux it and flow some silver solder into the crack.  That's just a 
>> thought.
>> I never tried it.
>>
>> Charlie
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
>> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
>> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 9:04 AM
>> Subject: Re: [AT] internal block repair
>>
>>
>>> John Hall wrote:
>>>>  Trying to fix an oil leak on a Farmall Cub. In years past the block 
>>>> was
>>>> broken at the front right lower corner (not too uncommon depending on 
>>>> the
>>>> owners). The block was welded on the outside and where the pan bolts
>>>> up---no
>>>> welding on the inside. Now the weld has cracked where the pan lays so 
>>>> oil
>>>> gets inside the crack from inside the motor, runs down to the gasket 
>>>> and
>>>> then leaks to the outside. I am thinking of cleaning the inside with 
>>>> carb
>>>> cleaner and applying some JB Weld or Belzona to the crack. Then I am
>>>> going
>>>> to coat the area with Glyptal. Then we will reinstall the pan using 
>>>> black
>>>> oil resistant silicone on the gasket. Other than pulling the engine and
>>>> re-welding the block (which is not an option for this Cubs owner) 
>>>> anybody
>>>> got any other ideas/suggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Happy New Year!
>>>>
>>>> John Hall
>>>>
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>>>>
>>>>
>>> If you can get in there how about brazing over the crack? You will want
>>> to use some heat there anyway to bake the oil out of the cast or the JB
>>> won't stick. Brazing would also help structurally.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Steve W.
>>> Near Cooperstown, New York
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