[Farmall] Another O-12 project, part 1
Alan Riley
arr44 at suddenlink.net
Sun Feb 15 20:01:17 PST 2009
Karl, now I don't feel so bad about some of my purchases!
But at least yours is running...
Alan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karl Olmstead" <kolmstead4 at msn.com>
To: <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 8:24 PM
Subject: [Farmall] Another O-12 project, part 1
>
> A month or so ago, I told about hauling a couple more O-12s home. One
> ran, the other wasn't stuck. I sealed up the intake and exhaust on the
> not stuck tractor so that it would stay that way. Today I finally found
> time to take a look at the running tractor.
>
> Back when I bought it, I was impressed with how well it ran. The fellow
> who sold it to me was fed up with it because he couldn't hand crank it,
> but it started almost instantly when pulled. We got it going, and I drove
> it around his yard and lined it up with my trailer. As it sat there
> idling, my friend warned me that it didn't have a fan belt installed. The
> fuel lines were all cut up, mostly replaced with rubber tubing. My friend
> had rigged a temporary fuel tank using a lawn mower gas tank sitting on
> top of the O-12's fuel tank. As I backed the tractor up my trailer
> ramps, the temporary tank slid off and fell on the trailer. My friend
> disconnected it from the rubber fuel line to keep me from running over it.
> I finished positioning the tractor on my trailer just as the engine
> sputtered and died. Unloaded the tractor when I got home, and pushed it
> into my shop the next day.
>
> I heated up my shop today and got out a pen and paper. I've found that I
> do a better job of fixing old tractors if I make a list of what the
> tractor needs, and cross off items as I complete them. Here's the list
> for OS 2680:
>
> hand crank bushing broken (as usual on O-12s)
> air cleaner needs to be reinstalled and plumbed to carburetor
> Wico magneto needs to be replaced with IHC unit
> magneto bracket should be replaced; somebody wallowed out the mounting
> holes to fit the Wico
> engine oil and filter undoubtedly need changing
> hood needs to be reinstalled
> fuel plumbing needs complete replacement
> fuel pump needs to be rebuilt (always, on 12 series tractors)
> cooling fan needs bearing cleanup and refill
> fan belt is missing
> front tires are way oversized, and leak down in a week
> oil pressure gauge broken and disconnected
> radiator empty, hoses need replacing (my fault; I cut the bottom hose to
> drain the radiator and prevent freeze damage)
> spark plug wires draped over exhaust manifold, and melted
> clutch covers on both sides missing
> exhaust pipe extremely crude; needs replacement
> fan belt adjustment bolt stuck
>
> I started removing parts. Took off the radiator, the magneto, spark plug
> wires and fuel tank and plumbing.
>
> In the world of antique tractor collecting, there exist a number of people
> who are well-meaning, but should never be allowed to touch tools. As I
> worked on 2680, I was reminded of this. The fellow I bought it from, who
> I'll call Bill, is a wonderful guy. Enthusiastic and honest. I've bought
> three or four tractors from him, and sooner or later, regretted every one.
>
> There's no way to tell if all the work I saw was Bill's or not, but most
> of it was consistent with his methods. As I mentioned, the fuel lines
> were butchered. Little stubs left, with rubber hose slid over them. When
> that didn't work, he stuck on a temporary tank instead of rebuilding the
> fuel pump, which was the real problem. When he discovered the broken hand
> crank bushing, he tried to weld the ears on the cast iron bushing to the
> cast iron front frame of the tractor. That lasted a week or two. I had
> to grind off the weld on the machined surfaces of the tractor front frame.
> The bushing was installed backwards on the hand crank.
>
> The spark plug wires were cheap, stiff vinyl-covered wire, draped over the
> exhaust manifold. At the plug end, the insulators had been sawed off the
> plug wires in order to fit under the exhaust manifold. At least one spark
> plug was so loose that I unscrewed it by hand.
>
> The original rear fenders were rough, so Bill cut them off and welded new
> rolled steel panels in their place. Of course, the new fenders aren't
> ribbed like the originals. The rear tires needed replacement, so Bill
> used a cold chisel to undo the big nuts that hold the rear wheels onto the
> axles. The rubber steering wheel was pretty rough, so Bill goobered on
> some filler and painted it. Never mind the lumps and remaining cracks.
>
> But the thing that really irritated me was the crankshaft. After I pulled
> the radiator, I decided to reinstall the hand crank, with a newly
> refurbished bushing. As I looked at the nose of the engine's crankshaft,
> I was puzzled by how beat up the pin was that the hand crank engages. The
> nose of the crankshaft extended all the way through the front motor mount,
> which looked wrong to me. I checked another O-12, and then went back to
> Bill's tractor. A flash of horror hit me. Bill welded a two inch stub on
> the nose of the engine crankshaft. Because he had installed the hand
> crank bushing backwards, the hand crank wouldn't reach the engine
> crankshaft. So he extended the crankshaft! In keeping with Bill's
> abilities, the extension is five or ten degrees out of alignment with the
> rest of the crankshaft.
>
> At this point, I could rant some more, but I think my previous statement
> covers it all. Some people should not be allowed to use tools. Tools
> simply increase the amount of damage that they can do.
>
> If the engine hadn't run so well, I'd just give up. But I think the best
> way to proceed is to support the front of the engine, pull the motor
> mount, and saw off Bill's extension. Then I'll try and clean out the
> screw hole that normally would secure the pin that goes through the front
> of the crankshaft in order to engage the hand crank. I just realized that
> I didn't see the hole the pin goes through. I hope Bill didn't weld it
> shut! I'd probably have to replace the crankshaft if the pin hole is
> ruined. Cleaning up the crankshaft nose would be straightforward on a
> lathe, but doing it in place is a different story.
>
> When I drove down to get the tractor, Bill told me that the reason the
> engine was so messy was because he had been running it with the rocker arm
> cover off. I didn't ask why he felt the need to run the engine with the
> rocker arm cover off. That's just the way Bill works.
>
> This little O-12 needs a lot of work. Ordinarily I'd seal up the intake
> and exhaust, park it and choose one that needs less attention. But I'm
> thinking about challenging myself with this one. I think what I'll do is
> try and get it ready for the Tulare, CA antique farm equipment show in
> mid-April. Bill will be there; I could show him a little different
> approach to tractor restoration. I'm probably just being silly. If I do
> get the tractor fixed up, Bill will figure that he did most of the work.
>
> Oh, yeah, one more thing... with the crankshaft extension in place,
> there's NO WAY to install a fan belt, short of removing radiator and front
> motor mount.
>
> -Karl
>
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