[AJD] Unstyled B conundrum

Rev. Gerber drgerber at fuse.net
Wed Feb 18 14:44:24 PST 2009 

John:  You are correct about costs.  We wanted to keep the original engine
in the LA, but the cost on the machine work was high, and it would have been
cheaper to replace the block.  We paid $1500.00 to have the block cleaned,
bored, sleeved, put in a replacement crank (cost did not include the crank
itself), rod and main bearings poured, new valves, seats ground, gasket set,
reassembly, etc.  But, Dad and Grandpa bought this thing new in 42, and it
has never left the farm.  We have the original bill of sale.  It was 0.20
over, but when the crank broke, we hat to bore it even more, and decided to
bore, sleeve, and put the original standard pistons back in.  Although
pricy, it turned out great. 

Rev. Dr. David R. Gerber
Mt. Airy United Methodist Church
2645 North Bend Rd.
Cincinnati, OH  45239
Phone: 513-541-0307
FAX: 513-541-2575


-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
John B
Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 3:37 PM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: Re: [AJD] Unstyled B conundrum

I just wanted to confirm that Bill is right. Deere sold oversize pistons and
not sleeves.  Thus, you would rebore the block and buy their set of o.s.
pistons. I know people who have had a machine shop instal andl then bore a
generic sleeve. With the cost of machine work, it would be pretty expensive.
It would most likely be less expensive to find a good used block.

John Boehm
Woodland, CA
Visit my web site at http://vintagetractors.com




--- On Wed, 2/18/09, Bill Brueck <b2 at chooka.net> wrote:

> From: Bill Brueck <b2 at chooka.net>
> Subject: Re: [AJD] Unstyled B conundrum
> To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'"
<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Date: Wednesday, February 18, 2009, 11:27 AM
> Nope, I don't have any sleeves.
> 
> To my knowledge Deere never sold a sleeve for these blocks.
>  You just bored
> them out as much as needed and used the cast iron block the
> way it was with
> oversize pistons and rings.  When folks have these blocks
> sleeved, I assume
> it's a generic sleeve that the machine shop provides.
> 
> I wouldn't worry about the 2 sides being the same
> oversize, either.  I can't
> imagine that would make a discernable difference.
> 
> If you run into too much trouble, I'd think a salvage
> block would be pretty
> available and reasonable.  
> 
> Maybe post to the larger list to make sure I'm on the
> right track on those
> sleeves.  
> 
> Best of luck, Bill!
> 
> BB 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Bill Thompson
> Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 1:09 PM
> To: Antique John Deere mailing list
> Subject: Re: [AJD] Unstyled B conundrum
> 
> Hi Bill,
> Can you help me out , looking for a sleeve for my 1939 B ,
> my mechanic said
> he only needed one, and that is the one that was stuck,and
> bore it to match
> the other one. Or should I do the other one also?
> Thank's  Bill T.
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On
> Behalf Of
> Bill Brueck
> Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 8:24 PM
> To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
> Subject: Re: [AJD] Unstyled B conundrum
> 
> 
> I changed mags on a later model B several years ago.  That
> was before I had
> manuals and Internet and such luxuries.  The coupling had a
> different angle
> on the replacement mag and I just loosened up the governor
> housing enough to
> lift it up and skip a few teeth on the gear.  A little
> trial and error and
> it was timed OK again.
> 
> Yeah, I know, not the right procedure for a restoration.  I
> wasn't trying
> for a restoration, I had my farmer hat on and needed to get
> a tractor
> running.  I remember that was the tractor that had been
> converted to an
> alternator.  But the engine wouldn't rev up enough to
> start the charging.
> So I put a push button on the dash to excite the alternator
> so it would
> start charging.
> 
> It ran just fine.
> 
> B²
> 
> Bill Brueck
>    Chatfield, Minnesota, USA
> 
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Mike Scholl
> Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 5:20 PM
> To: Antique John Deere List
> Subject: [AJD] Unstyled B conundrum
> 
> 
> I looking for an answer to a problem that started in 1945
> or 1946.
> 
> Sometime in 1945 or 1946 my 1935 John Deere B was fitted
> with a modified
> short-lug coupler Wico X magneto, I'll assume to
> replace its 'problematic'
> F-M DRV2B.  As many of you are aware of, aside from the lug
> length, there is
> also a difference in the lag angle between short and long
> lug coupler.
> 
> My Wico X has the 6274 short lug coupler, but the lugs have
> been lengthened
> nearly 3/8".  I don't know what was done if
> anything other than the lug
> lengthening.
> 
> In the 30+ years that I've had the tractor, it has
> always run well, but 2
> years ago I decided to restore it so my grandson can drive
> it in parades and
> things like that.
> 
> Since the tractor will be compared to others of similar
> vintage, I decided
> that I'd try to get as close to the way it was when it
> left Waterloo as my
> pocket book would allow.  With that in mind, I bought a F-M
> DRV2B.  It is a
> good mag the throws a nice spark when I bench test it.
> 
> Here's my problem... When I put it on the tractor I
> cannot adjust it to
> where the impulse trips anywhere near "LH
> IMPULSE".   It's still too cold
> here in Minnesota to work in an unheated garage and when it
> warms up I plan
> to pull the governor case to see if there are register
> marks on the cam and
> governor shaft that might show that I am off register. 
> I've explained my
> problem to an expert and been told that there is a fair
> chance that I'm
> looking in the right direction.
> 
> Here's my question... Is there anyone out there that
> has encountered a
> similar situation that can say "Yes, this was a common
> practice" or "No, a
> single gear tooth off would give you more than the
> difference in lag angle
> between the long and short lugs".
> 
> Any insight is appreciated!
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike
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