[AT] @$#@$#% Cub - red engine oil

[charliehill]

The time I tried to burn used oil before I just dumped it about 15 or 20% in 
with my #2 oil in the furnace tank.  I let it sit and figured that between 
the settling, dilution and the wool sock filter on the fuel line it would be 
ok but it wasn't.   A few days or weeks later I started having furnace 
problems.  I pulled the pump off of the furnace and it was full of very fine 
black grit that had gotten through the sock filter and the strainer on the 
pump.  I spent the rest of that winter and most of the next trying to keep 
that furnace running until I finally replaced the pump and switched the fuel 
lines.  Problem solved.

Since then I've changed fuel tanks and put a "goldenrod" brand filter like 
you put on a farm fuel transfer pump ahead of the wool sock filter.  If I 
try to burn any more of that stuff I want to be sure I have it cleaned up. 
I don't want to contaminate this system now that I have it clean.

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] @$#@$#% Cub - red engine oil


> carl gogol wrote:
>> Steve-
>> One other question - along with how long it takes, how big a rope are you
>> assuming?  a 1/2" rope should be 4 times faster than a 1/4" diameter 
>> rope --
>> practically?
>> carl
>
> I used some 3/8" stuff I had for a clothes line. Time wise it depends a
> LOT on the material being filtered and the temperature. Water filters
> much faster than oil due to the viscosity. Basically the thinner the
> material the faster it filters.
>
> I also have a DIY filter that uses a three stage system, It starts with
> a double sock over the inlet, through a couple of the woven nylon water
> filters and then through a standard LARGE fuel filter from a truck.
>
> -- 
> Steve W.
>
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