[AT] Cub Cadet values

Larry Goss rlgoss at insightbb.com
Tue Sep 9 16:21:13 PDT 2008


Roy, your comments brought back memories.  Replacing the dirve shaft with those CV joints is fun.  The official instructions say to remove the engine for the operation, but if you hold your mouth just right, mumble the right incantations, and have a little patience, you can do it without removing anything except the old drive shaft.  When the boss discovered I could do that (and save all that work) do you suppose he rewarded me with a raise?  Of course not.

Larry


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 9, 2008 15:36
Subject: Re: [AT] Cub Cadet values
To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>

> Roy Morgan wrote:
> > Steve,
> > 
> > Thanks for the additional information.  I'm new to 
> tractors in general  
> > and Cub Cadets in particular, having just bought the Cub Cadet 
> that  
> > had lived at our new house.  The thing is a Model 2084, 
> has plastic  
> > hood parts, and apparently was made by MTD.  The folks at 
> the local  
> > Cub dealer decry some of the things MTD did in design and 
> execution,  
> > and have been good enough to warn me about the weak points of 
> the one  
> > I have (especially the engine to drive unit shaft).
> 
> Roy,
>   Don't believe everything you hear from a dealer. My 
> 1641,1864 use the 
> same unit and they are STRONG. As for the real differences. Your 
> 2084 is 
> built on the same IH designed chassis that the earlier models 
> used. MTD 
> actually upgraded some of it though. For instance tilt steering, 
> and the 
> true CV joints on the drive shaft are BIG changes. The reason 
> the talk 
> about that drive shaft is if you have the optional rear 3 
> point/PTO 
> unit. The PTO tiller and the brush hog can beat the crap out of 
> that 
> shaft if you abuse them.
> 
> > 
> > 
> >> The tractors in question are the compact diesels (25-40 HP) 
> Those  
> >> are the
> >> Mahindra types.
> > 
> > I gathered that they are diesels.  The owner of the Cub 
> place sells  
> > Simplicity machines, too, and feels that for real work, you 
> don't get  
> > a Cadet, you get a Simplicity.
> 
> Bet they are not a high volume dealer. The 3000 series will eat 
> a 
> comparable simplicity for lunch. I beat the 1641 to death on a 
> regular 
> basis. Take a Simplicity and see how far it will mow through 
> weeds and 
> grass and sumac over your head. Mine is considered a self 
> propelled 
> brush cutter.
> 
> > 
> > 
> >> Oh and FYI, if you have the earlier IH made Cub cadets you 
> can get  
> >> parts
> >> for them at the Case IH dealer if they are any good. That 
> covers all  
> >> the
> >> tractors made up to the plastic hooded "Cyclops" series.
> > 
> > My Cadet is the later type.  Maybe better it was 
> older!  Perhaps  
> > eventually, I'll evolve out of the plastic-hooded cadet and 
> get a real  
> > IH Cub.  It seems that they were true tractors, even 
> though small.
> > 
> > In the meantime, I'll run the Cub Cadet around the lawn, and 
> carefully  
> > to cut grown up pasture weeds, and learn more about the IHC 
> McCormick  
> > W-4 we also have.
> 
> The ONLY drawback to the plastic hood is that you can break 
> them, while 
> the steel hoods dented. One weak spot on the hoods is the hinge. 
> If 
> yours starts sticking when you open it (will POP!) pull the 
> hinge and 
> clean and lube the bar.
> 
> > 
> > Thanks for the info and advice.  (I wonder how far it is 
> from Ithaca  
> > to Cooperstown.)
> > Roy
> 
> 2 3/4 hours. I drove all over the state with the lottery and 
> Ithaca was 
> in my area.
> 
> If you get bored and want to talk to folks who own and love Cub 
> Cadets 
> drop over to http://ihregistry.com and join the group. Any 
> question you 
> have about them will be covered there. Also service manuals, 
> owners 
> manuals and other help can be found on the forum.
> 
> -- 
> Steve W.
> Near Cooperstown, New York
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> 



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