[Farmall] Couple more newbie questions

[Roger Showers]

Mike as I thing abot it your right.I just looked at my 806 wide front and my A wide front.I am  scared to death of slopes I ran over A rock on hy side as A kid over the M went.
                                                                                         Roger
 


--- On Wed, 10/1/08, Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net> wrote:

From: Mike Sloane <mikesloane at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Couple more newbie questions
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 1, 2008, 10:59 AM

I have to say that the idea that a wide front end is safer than a narrow 
front end is a fallacy. To make a long story short, the wide front 
pivots freely at a point a foot or so higher than the narrow front, but 
there is otherwise no difference whatsoever in the the tendency to tip: 
once a rear  tire leaves the ground, the tractor is going over, whether 
the front end is narrow or wide. The only reasons for a wide front end 
are 1. so that you can cultivate row crops leaving two wheel tracks 
instead of three, and 2. they ride a little better on roads with potholes.

Having a very heavy implement on the back of the tractor and/or 
weights/ballast in the tires will help a little with tipping on side 
hills, but the operator should avoid working side hills if at all possible.

I point this out only to make sure that folks don't take any chances 
with tipping because they think they are safer with a wide front, not to 
criticize Roger.

Finally, putting a loader on an H requires, at a minimum, that the 
tractor have a hydraulic pump, reservoir, valves, and hoses. If it does 
have the old "belly pump" Lift-All system, you may not be all that 
thrilled with the operation, both in terms of lifting speed and 
capacity. Been there, done that. And, as others have mentioned, the 
steering effort will increase considerably with any kind of load, as 
well as putting a strain on the front end components.

Mike

Roger Showers wrote:
> If you put A loader 0n it well make your H stear alot harder.As for
> wide front they are safer and well make your H wroth more money
> 
> --- On Tue, 9/30/08, Lisa Kelley <pippi-longstocking- at hotmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
> From: Lisa Kelley <pippi-longstocking- at hotmail.com> Subject:
> [Farmall] Couple more newbie questions To:
> farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com Date: Tuesday, September 30, 2008,
> 7:11 PM
> 
> Thanks much for the responses to my overrun question-
> 
> so-- do we think I really should install one before operating the
> bush hog "squeeler" ??? This model is a pull type and it says
the
> operating max PTO speed is 540---- which is (unless I'm mistaken) the
> speed of the H's .. It's 6ft wide and the blade(s)  are the type
> attached to an oval shape doo dad and they are not fixed, they
> swing/flail whatever. Pardon my lack of proper terminology ... ;-)
> 
> I would get an overrun if it was the best way to go--- I'm just not
> clear whether this particular bushhog has the inertia/rotation that
> would cause me trouble without an overrun?
> 
> another kind of dumb question---just how tippy is an H say if you are
> doing mowing and bush hogging on lumpy bumpy old fields that never
> had a single stone pulled out of them?   ;-) I have a junker H for
> parts with a wide front end I could mount up.
> 
> last question for now--- saw a McCormick Deering loader for sale--
> model is supposed to mount up to the H.  Old fellah next door said
> "Oh don't bother with one of those" I was kinda thinking for
a couple
> hundred bucks to have a loader that is made for the H-- so that I
> could move some manure from point A to point B... didn't seem too
> bad? i uderstand you have to use a hand trip to dump the bucket.
> Frame and bucket(s) a big and a small) looked good--maybe needed to
> replace or machine the cylinders. price was $300 
> _________________________________________________________________ 
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