[Farmall] Looking for some help with a 1928 Regular.

John Gustafson gustafsonjohnc at wildblue.net
Tue Jun 24 21:16:32 PDT 2008


I'd like to say thanks to those that responded. As I explained to Justin in 
a seperate e-mail, this is a kind of crazy arrangement right now with my 
being at home in Virginia and the tractor and son being in Houston. I did 
most of the disassembly over a week in April. Llots of bagged and tagged 
parts on the shelves, lots of digital pictures, lots of notes in the 
manuals.  Son gets things done on his schedule, I'm retired, he still has a 
career besides this "warehouse". I get to be the parts and information 
chaser when I'm not in TX

The information  was appreciated, especially the bit about the rear two 
bushings held in by screws. We had totally missed that one. Suspect most 
machine shops would have as well. Son called with a description of  finally 
finding the bosses they went into and extracting this rather strange looking 
screw that anchored the bushing.
Had we not picked that up my guess is we would have probably damaged 
something.

Thanks again all, it is appreciated.

John G

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <farmallgray at aol.com>
To: <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Looking for some help with a 1928 Regular.


> John,
> I may not be much help but I'll try.
> In modern automotive engines the cam bearings can be replaced without 
> being line bored. If the bearings are fairly heavy wall thickness (say 
> 1/8" or more) I would think they could be removed and reinstalled (in the 
> same hole they came out of) with a good set of bearing drivers.
>
> I have the book "Overhauling the McCormick-Deering Farmall tractor" and it 
> doesn't mention anything about cam bearing clearences. I don't have my I&T 
> manual on the F-series handy to check it. I would think the clearences 
> would be roughly the same as for the rod bearings. You are right about it 
> being a slow speed engine and also with very low oil pressure.
>
> You might check with Gordon Rice (Rice Equipment) and see if he has new 
> bearings available.
> He also has?service manuals available. Check with the shop doing the hot 
> tanking to see if they know of any way to protect the bearings. But the 
> chemicals they use are supposed to disolve most anything.
>
>
>
>
> You may also rethink things a little. Maybe just pull the sleeves and 
> clean everything out by hand with brushes etc. Maybe soak it with 
> degreaser and use a good hot water/steam pressure washer. Just some 
> thoughts.
>
>
> Todd Markle
> Spring Mills, Pa.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Gustafson <gustafsonjohnc at wildblue.net>
> To: farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com
> Sent: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 6:52 pm
> Subject: [Farmall] Looking for some help with a 1928 Regular.
>
>
>
> About a year ago, my son bought a warehouse in Houston as an investment /
> storage area for his overabundance of toys. One of the things that went 
> with the
> deal was a rusty old 1928 Farmall that had belonged to what had been the 
> farm
> back when. Best we could research it had been parked sometime in the 50's. 
> How
> it got inside the warehouse we don't know, but there it was on steel.
>
> We decided to see if we could rebuild it and get it running. That might 
> have
> been a soft headed decision on our part but over the past year the 
> teardown has
> proceeded on the engine and it has been fun. Mag was trashed, governor 
> possibly
> (another task) but amazingly the block and head seem solid (so far) and 
> most of
> the pieces seem to be ther in some sort of condition. We did pick up a 
> 1930
> Regular as a parts tractor just in case.
>
> Evidence is clear that someone has been into it before, no surprise, and 
> none to
> gently.
>
> Anyway, to the point of all this. The engine is out and stripped except 
> for the
> cam bearings and the cylinder sleeves.  The goal is to get the blocked 
> dipped,
> Caustic to get rid of 80 years of sludge, acid to clear out 80 years of 
> rust
> from the cooling passages.
>
> I figure the sleeve seals will be destroyed but they seem readily 
> available. The
> cam bearings however are the cause of this e-mail.
>
> Can the camshaft bearings be pulled and reinserted.  Anyone know if the 
> bearings
> could be masked during the process?
>
> Next question is does anyone have any info on bearing clearance or fit to 
> the
> camshaft?
>
> My instincts tell me that the bearings should be line bored and fitted to 
> the
> cam at installation so that reusing would not be an option.  Still this is 
> 80
> year old technology and a slow turning engine so I may be overly gun shy.
>
> Does anyone know of a source for these bearings outright. I can get them
> reproduced if I have to but it would be a lot easier if I could just 
> purchase a
> set.
>
> I have posted this question on a couple of the other tractor forums and so 
> far
> the silence has been deafening. Hopefully, someone here can give some 
> guidance.
>
> John G
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