[AT] Autos-Was:refusing to replace old equipment

Steve W. falcon at telenet.net
Sat Dec 20 07:05:07 PST 2008


Ralph Goff wrote:
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Brad Gunnells" <brad-gunnells at uiowa.edu>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Friday, December 19, 2008 9:08 AM
> Subject: [AT] Autos-Was:refusing to replace old equipment
> 
> 
>> Dropping a fuel tank for the pump doesn't sound as easy (I've never
>> done one so assumption here) as one bolted to the block. So I don't
>> know if a blanket statement that they are harder to work on is
>> entirely accurate.
> 
> Re: fuel pump replacemnt, I know of one guy that had to replace the fuel 
> pump in his later model GM pickup. They actually removed the box to do the 
> job which added considerable time and cost to the bill. After that he cut a 
> small access hole in the box just in case it ever required another pump 
> replacement.
> I've never removed a tank on a newer vehicle but have done a few old car and 
> truck tanks. I'd imagine that not having rusty old bolts to contend with 
> might make it a little simpler although who knows?
> 
> Ralph in Sask.
> 
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> 

GM and Ford both recommend removing the box to access the pump on the
P/U trucks. It's faster, easier, cleaner and usually cheaper. I do that
myself as well. One some of the cars there is already an access hole.

At least that's better than the new Ford Super Duties, For most of the
work under the hood the first item on the repair list is to remove the
entire front clip and cab!!!

Yeah rust makes everything more difficult. That's why I have actually
started painting over everything with spray-on bed liner. A thin coat
keeps water/salt away and isn't hard to remove if you do need to remove
a bolt/nut. On things like threaded studs I slather them with a thin
coat of grease prior to coating. That way the paint won't bond in the
threads.

-- 
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York



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