[AT] Welding Grousers...?
Alan Nadeau
ajnadeau1 at verizon.net
Mon May 14 14:04:04 PDT 2007
Skip the rebar, that stuff is terribly hard to make a weld work on. Any
welding on rebar tends to result in underbead cracking which will be
aggravated by impact with the rocks you mention. Spring for track bar made
for the purpose, it is alloyed to handle severe abrasion and impact. Run
7018, or if you have a DC machine 10016 or 11018. The last two will run on
AC but they are a little harder to work with that way. For the best results
grind off the skin on the old tracks, don't have to take much off, just that
few thousandths that are work hardened. Easiest way is to work on whichever
grouser is on the sprocket , in the flat. Weld one side on as many as you
can do easily then move the machine. Weld the other side when they get to
the front roller. Make sure to fill both your start and stop craters at the
ends of the new bars. If you don't fill those they make a thin spot in the
weld and a crack can start there and propagate across the whole weld.
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