[AT] Welding Grousers...?

[George Willer]

This topic reminded me once again of Cecil Monson.  Does anyone else
remember his narrative of his successful grouser repair?

George Willer

> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-
> bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of toma
> Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 4:48 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Welding Grousers...?
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, 14 May 2007 william.neff.powell at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> > Has anyone had success welding grousers on their old dozer pads?
> >
> > Whats the best method, mig, stick, type of rod to use?
> 
> I have welded grousers on several old Cats the most recent being my D4 7U.
> It is quite time consuming but very rewarding. The dozer would not start a
> decent cut without spinning the tracks, after re-grousering it will do
> much better more productive work.
> 
> Due to the amount of your own labor involved I would recommend using
> grouser bar. It is not real expensive and the side that you weld to the
> old grouser is beveled just right for welding. It has the correct tapered
> profile and  will look and perform just like new grousers. It comes in
> different heights and you should use the one that brings it back to the
> original spec. I made the mistake of letting the guy talk me into the
> taller bar and that old D4 really tears up the yard.
> 
> At the time I had an old Hobart welder and welded one side on with DC and
> 5/32" 7018. The old welder burned up half way through and I did the other
> side with my old AC 180 amp buzz box and 5/32" 6013. To this day (many
> years later) you can't tell the difference and none have ever bent or come
> off.
> 
> I jacked up the side I was working on and welded 2 or 3 at a time on the
> back so I could weld in the flat position, Then turn the track with a bar
> and weld on 2 or 3 more, when they came out in the front I welded the
> other side. You have to take care to get them started so they are
> straight. Some guys make a jig for this. Tack them in several places on
> both sides so they dont pull when you make the main weld.
> 
> Years before I did a Cletrac and a D2 using mild steel bar, these both
> bent and came off.
> 
> If you have loose pads you may not want to invest the time. If the holes
> are wallowed out too big you will never get them to stay tight. If you
> only have a few you could consider replacing the bad ones. Use only the
> special track bolts. If it an old set of tracks that you plan to "run to
> destruction" you could weld the pads right to the rails.
> 
> Good luck it will hone your welding skills.
> 
> Tom
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