[AT] Rust magic?

[Dave Ernst]

John,
Ed is right. Water is your answer. If it got in there in the first place, it 
can get in there again.  Water is the universal lubricant so go soak them in 
a pond as Ed suggests.
I had a 9G series D7 that sat in a salt ocean atmosphere for so long nothing 
moved. Cut the track links in two places and removed them from each end and 
ended up with what looked like two horsehoe magnets.  Dropped them into a 
drainage ditch for a couple of months and they eventually freed up by 
beating on them with a wheel loader.
You could use a rosebud and heat the individual links, but for the price of 
bottled gas now days.......
I'd be interested in how your project turns out.
Dave
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "CRAWLER HEAVEN" <edc at crawlerheaven.com>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 6:11 AM
Subject: Re: [AT] Rust magic?


> First of all there is a term in metalolgie?? that the two pieces will 
> become
> one and then it is to late you can save the links but the pins&bushing 
> will
> never come apart.   Do you have a pond? Throw them in the pond for a week 
> or
> two and see iff you can move them then. I have left them in the pond of a
> few weeks and put them right on my track press and pressed them apart and
> have saved about half of the ones i did. If you did get them to move 
> unless
> you take them apart and clean and reassemble you would have to put 50-100
> hours on them right away or they will sieze again.  Ed
> www.crawlerheaven.com
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "JParks" <jkparks at flash.net>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 7:52 AM
> Subject: [AT] Rust magic?
>
>
>> I am looking for any suggestions or recommendations for a real rust
> buster.
>>
>> I have two sets of almost new TD6 track that sat on a machine for years
> and
>> all the joints were either really stiff or frozen.
>>
>> I have soaked all the joints w/ diesel, driven over them several times
> with
>> wheel loaders and even a track loader.  I presoaked them again with 
>> diesel
>> and with the use of an excavator boom to hold each link down in sequence,
>> and using the curl linkage, I hooked up to each link and was able to work
>> each joint back and forth a little before moving down the chain to the
> next
>> link.  It is still too tight!
>>
>> I talked to an old (like me) crawler man who has run a track shop for
>> decades (and he has "seen-it-all") and he does not think I should set 
>> them
>> on fire.  He has run across track like this before and he could not even
>> dismantle them without ruining or busting some of the individual links.
>>
>> What liquid rust breaker on the market will really work (vs. what is
> simply
>> marketed and does not work)!?
>>
>> Thanks for any help.
>>
>> John Parks
>> Boise, ID
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> AT mailing list
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
>