[AT] , now Cub Cadet

[Ken Knierim]

Danny,
    With the electronic ignitions they use on most of the new ones,
they don't have a condenser as a separate component. They build the
electronic switch into the molding and there are no separate parts.
For a while Briggs (and others) had a little kit that you could
replace the points with a little Hall effect sensor; they worked great
and you could tinker on them. Those would probably be hard to find
today. They still have coils get weak too but it's a flippin' sealed
unit and hard to diagnose without just replacing the whole thing. Too
bad you can't get some old "freeze spray" and give the assembly a shot
of "cold" when it's acting up.
We used to use a lot of that working on electronics but most of the
good stuff is now banned (probably BECAUSE it worked). You can still
get CO2 for that purpose. And since they ARE a sealed unit, water
might work too. Worst that can happen is that it can totally croak and
then you can take it back and tell them it's a warranty failure and
offer to bill them for your time. And it will be all cleaned up for
the feller that gets to work on it. :)

Hope this helps.

Ken in AZ



On 6/20/07, Danny Tabor <dannytabor2000 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Ken
>     I wasn't thinking along that line, condensor
> heating up!
> There was one day I allstinkingmost got the yard mowed
> before it started giving me trouble. I think there was
> overcast that day. However I also know that I had
> filled the gas tank to the top as well that day.
>     The choke doesn't make much of a difference with
> it when it starts messing up.
> Your 2 cents maybe the cure I need.
>
> Danny
>
> --- Ken Knierim <ken.knierim at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Danny,
> >     the issue with the ignition would be my first
> > question. Many
> > engine problems are blamed on carburetors when the
> > problem is actually
> > a weak coil or condenser heating up. And since they
> > normally aren't
> > where you can get to them (under a flywheel on small
> > engines) they are
> > hard to catch.
> >      You might check with a spark plug. If you're
> > only getting an
> > orange spark when it's hot (key point; most
> > electrical stuff shows up
> > when it's hotter) you should take a good hard look
> > at fixing that. It
> > should be a nice blue spark.
> >
> > Also, is it worse during the hot part of the day and
> > better in the
> > morning when its cooler?
> >
> > The other way to look at it is: if the fuel level
> > affects things and
> > it runs better when the tank is more full, then it
> > might be a piece of
> > junk in something or a cracked fuel line or some
> > other fuel system
> > ailment. But if it tracks temperature more closely,
> > look at the
> > ignition. The choke can actually mislead you because
> > the richer
> > mixture will many times light easier (with less
> > voltage on the spark).
> >
> > Just my $0.02
> >
> > Ken in AZ
> >
> > On 6/20/07, Danny Tabor <dannytabor2000 at yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> > >  Last year my father had purchased a Cub Cadet
> > LT1045
> > > from Tractor Supply. The darn thing ran good even
> > > through the winter up until about the second grass
> > > cutting this year. Now it runs fine for any where
> > from
> > > 10 minutes to a half hour until it starts acting
> > as if
> > > its vapor locking.
> > > Since it started acting up I have switched to
> > higher
> > > octane gas with no improvement. Dad has called TSC
> > > because it is under warrantee, however typical TSC
> > > they can't get it looked at until December. (I've
> > had
> > > trouble with TSC in the past. so thats a bit of a
> > sore
> > > subject)
> > > I personally don't think the tractor is vapor
> > locking.
> > > The fella from TSC my father talked with said
> > they've
> > > had problems with the ignitions on this model. I
> > can't
> > > see that as the problem either.
> > >        I had also put a post up about this on YT
> > > because as I had there this stinking thing is
> > driving
> > > me nuts!
> > >
> > > Danny Tabor
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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