[AT] Hole in exhaust manifold....

[charlie hill]

Al that's kind of like that guy at the fair or the farm show that "welds" up 
the bottom of a beer can with his "special" rods.  Ever tried to do it 
yourself?  I have.  I know it can be done I've seen that guy do it more than 
once but I can't do it.  I still have some of those rods around here 
somewhere.  LOL

Charlie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Al Jones" <aljones at ncfreedom.net>
To: "'Antique tractor email discussion group'" 
<at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 9:52 PM
Subject: RE: [AT] Hole in exhaust manifold....


> Thanks, George, It's been a while since I had to remember temp. for
> brazing, soldering, and so forth.  I've never been too good at
> brazing--seems like I never got things hot enough to make it flow right.
> Just need more practice I guess.
>
> Al
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of George Willer
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 7:30 PM
> To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
> Subject: RE: [AT] Hole in exhaust manifold....
>
> Al,
>
> Walt should study more before he offers advice, we know he hasn't brazed
> a
> manifold.  Visible red shows up just a little over 900 F.  An engine
> with
> aluminum pistons would melt down long before the manifold got to 2000
> even
> with the cooling effect of the incoming charge.
>
> Copper/zinc (brass) melts at different points depending on the alloy.
> The
> range is from 1300 F to nearly 2000 F. The cast iron itself would melt
> at
> around 2300 F.
>
> Brazing manifolds isn't for the faint of heart... differential cooling
> causes a lot of cracking... It's very difficult to do.  Ask me how I
> know.
>
> George Willer
>
>
>
>
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