[AT] STP

[Michael Miller]

Steve,

You don't know if this would apply to a '95 F-250, do you?


>From: "Steve W." <falcon at telenet.net>
>Reply-To: Antique tractor email discussion group 
><at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>To: Antique tractor email discussion group <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Subject: Re: [AT] STP
>Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2007 22:43:41 -0500
>
>Phil,
>  I hate to be the bearer of bad news but if that F-150 is between a 90-96 
>model you don't have an oil pressure gauge. You actually have a glorified 
>idiot light. Ford decided that they were getting to many complaints about 
>the oil pressure variations on there vehicles so they outfitted the 90-96 F 
>150, T-Bird and a couple others with gauges that don't read oil pressure, 
>they read a resistor switched into the circuit by a switch in the sender.
>
>What the manual says about the infamous OIL PRESSURE GAUGE!....
>
>"When the engine oil pressure is normal, the oil pressure switch is 
>closed(short circuit), allowing current flow through the 20-ohm resistor on 
>the cluster flexible circuit into the gauge which drives the pointer to a 
>position slightly above midscale.  The switch opens (open circuit)  when 
>oil pressure drops to a critically low level (4.5 - 7.5 psi) causing 
>movement of the pointer to or below the "L" band."
>
>"NOTE: The pointer of the magnetic gauge will remain in it's last
>position when the ignition is turned off.  It will move to the correct (or 
>actual) indication whenever the ignition is turned back on."
>
>http://groups.google.com/group/rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer/browse_thread/thread/46706ab95d9f44fe?q=ford+
>
>This is for the Tbird but the F is about the same.
>
>How to convert your oil pressure gauge
>by Mike Maroschak
>mmarosch at cgocable.net
>
>1. Remove sender unit's wire.
>2. Remove oil pressure sender unit with a 1 1/16" socket or the special oil 
>pressure sender socket (which actually works better if you have one).
>3. You might have to move some of the accessory belts out of your way.
>4. Put Teflon tape on the new sender unit's threads.
>5. You may have to use a 7/8" open ended wrench to **** the threaded pipe 
>(that comes out of engine block) slightly one way or the other.
>6. Thread in the new sender as tightly as you can with your bare hands (as 
>you would your oil filter). It's easier if you make sure the sender and 
>your hands are dry and grease free.
>7. Re-connect sender unit's wire
>8. A small number of Thunderbirds have the 20 ohm resistor located on the 
>oil sender wire approximately 5 inches form the sender itself. If this is 
>the case, bypass or remove this resistor and skip steps 8 through 14 
>(inclusive).
>9. Remove trim around instrument cluster. There are 2 screws at the top, 
>then ease it on out.
>10. Remove screws around instrument cluster. Ease it out several inches, 
>tilt the bottom out, and gently pull the 2 connectors off.
>11. Be careful not to scratch the instrument cluster's bezel.
>12. Flip it up side down and solder a piece of 18 gauge (insulated) wire in 
>parallel to the 20 ohm resistor behind the oil pressure gauge. There is no 
>need to remove the resistor. Be careful not to melt the plastic.
>13. This would be a good time to remove the bezel and clean it.
>14. Also a good time to replace any burnt out bulbs.
>15. Replace instrument cluster.
>16. Remember to check for leaks.
>18. When cold: between M and top line When hot at speed: M When hot in gear 
>idle: between N and O When hot in park: O
>
>19. The oil sender part numbers are as follows: Standard Motor Products: 
>PS-60 Echlin: OP6091 Motorcraft: SW-1547-B, E4ZZ-9278-A
>
>
>Phil Auten wrote:
>>Ralph,
>>Before you do anything else, try either a new sender or a new gauge. My 
>>old F150 was showing low oil pressure too, and with over 200K on the 
>>odometer, I thought it
>>might be time for a new oil pump. I spoke with a couple of the mechanics 
>>at the local dealership ( I used to work there) and they suggested a new 
>>sender. I bought
>>one in the parts dept. for about $10, and the pressure now shows above the 
>>center of the gauge again, just like when I first bought it with 30K on 
>>it.
>>
>>Phil
>>
>>At 12:00 PM 2/25/2007, you wrote:
>>>Not sure if I may have asked this question before but I'm wondering 
>>>again, how many , if any of you, use STP oil treatment in your old 
>>>tractor engines? The reason I ask is that my Cockshutt 40 has lower oil 
>>>pressure than I like to see. It seems to be gradually dropping as the 
>>>years go by even though the engine is excellent and burns no oil. At full 
>>>throttle running the snowblower it has oil pressure reading just on the 
>>>line between normal and low. It used to be up in the o to r part of the 
>>>word normal a few years ago. I don't know if the oil pump is wearing out 
>>>or bearing clearances are increasing. I do regular oil and filter changes 
>>>and have always used the same 10w-30 oil since the engine was rebuilt 
>>>some 27 years ago.
>>>I'm wondering if some of that good thick STP oil treatment might increase 
>>>the oil pressure or at least provide improved lubrication to compensate 
>>>for the lower oil pressure?
>>>Just looking for opinions here.
>>>
>>>Ralph in Sask.
>>>_______________________________________________
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>>>http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>>
>>
>
>--
>Steve W.
>Near Cooperstown, New York
>
>Pacifism - The theory that if they'd fed
>Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,
>he'd have become a vegan.
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