[Farmall] Riggin up an auxiliary hydraulic port

Wed Feb 7 18:57:06 PST 2007

Hi Charlie

You've told me a good deal.  If your 340's 1500 psi pressure can split those
red oak knarls, then so should mine.  I believe your internal pump produces
12 GPM, which will drive the piston a bit faster than my external 9 GPM
pump, but the pressures are the same according to the manual, and that's
what I was concerned about, whether the factory pressure of 1500 psi would
be enough.  Thanks for sharing your experience!

Paul
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BIRDDOG" <cvill at frontiernet.net>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>;
"BIRDDOG" <cvill at frontiernet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 3:47 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Riggin up an auxiliary hydraulic port

> Hi Paul,
>
> I have not used my splitter in a couple years, but I am sure the
> cylinder is not over 3" by about 20"  or 22" stroke. It is sort of a
> backward set up because the ram head is on the cylinder while the wedge
> is fixed  at the outboard end.  It is a manufactured unit, but I can't
> recall the brand.  When I get over being a shut in I will check it out
> and snap a picture or two.  At any rate, a friend brought a pick up load
> of red oak knarls that were left over from his hand splitting.  He had
> given up on these.  Anything that we couldn't do with the splitter ended
> up being just splinters, so the power is pretty good.  The PO of this
> splitter heated his large home with only red oak from his farm.  He used
> this splitter on a Jubilee Ford to make 30 or so cord a year and was
> pleased with it.
>
> Getting to your question, my 340 only has the original internal pump and
> I am not sure which gpm model it is.  I think maybe the higher volume
> option because it can make the 3 pt. hitch literally jump up and down
> and I think that is a 4" cylinder.  My splitter cylinder may take three
> seconds or four to run full stroke.  It runs just as fast on the load
> stroke as on the return. I have stalled the ram occasionally when
> directly on a knot.  I just back off, turn the chunk a little and have
> another go at it.  That normally works.  With the control valve right on
> the splitter, it will go through wood a lot faster than I can feed it
> and clear the pieces away. I should also state that I only run the
> tractor RPM at around 900 to 950.  Being the conservative that I am, I
> prefer to go a little slower or stall on a tough piece of wood than to
> have all the power I need to shatter steel and have a piece fly through
> my aging brain.
>
> Others may offer you a lot more information on pump volume and pressure
> than I can.  Without math calculations for volume needed vs. supply, I
> can only guess, but it sounds like your supply should do a good job on
> the splitter you are looking at.   My original thinking was that if an
> eight HP motor could run a splitter, the 340  with 30 some HP should
> too.  (simple thinker).
>
> Hope this offers a little help.  Just MHO.
>
> Charlie V. in WNY
>
> Paul Sigmund wrote:
> > Say Birddog,
> >
> > I've been reading this thread with interest also.  I have a 340U with
the
> > external hydraulic pump, which according to the manual is rated 9 GPM at
> > 1500 psig.  Have you found your 340U has adequate flow and pressure to
> > operate your log splitter?  I've been considering the 3 point splitter
in
> > the Northern Hydraulics catalog, which has a 4 inch x 24 inch piston and
I
> > wasn't sure if I had enough pressure.  I'd be very interested in your
> > experience with yours.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Paul in NJ
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "birddog" <cvill at frontiernet.net>
> > To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 12:42 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Farmall] Riggin up an auxiliary hydraulic port
> >
> >
> >
> >> Hello, Mr. Mike and list,
> >>
> >> My 340U has the lines with couplers at the rear as well as a mid
tractor
> >> set.  I have never had reason to use the mid set.  I only have a single
> >> control lever.  Do not know if the mid couplers  are pressured all the
> >> time, or just an extension from the rear controlled set.  A school
which
> >> was the PO used a sidewalk plow on the front and a salter on the back,
> >> so they may have had another valve body for the plow.
> >>
> >> The rear set normally operate the 3 pt. hitch cylinder.  When I have
> >> used my log splitter, I mounted it into the hitch, positioned it where
> >> needed and set the outer end on a large chunk of wood.  Then I can
> >> easily unhook the hitch hoses and couple the splitter hoses.  (My
> >> splitter is a horizontal wedge type).  To get past your bailing wire
> >> stigma, use my method.  "Regular black rubber bungy strap."  If I
> >> remember, I hook it form the control lever one of the brake pedals.
> >> This has worked just fine for me whenever needed.  The by pass on the
> >> tractor seems to deal with it just fine and I have total splitter
> >> control from the valve on the splitter.
> >>
> >> One of the bad things about bad weather is that it gives a man too much
> >> time to think.  (Grin)
> >>
> >> Charlie V in sunny but cold WNY
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Mike Sloane wrote:
> >>
> >>> I have a Farmall 340, and I am thinking about installing a three point
> >>> log splitter that takes the pressure from the tractor's hydraulic
> >>> system. I know that the two sets of ports on the 340 only have
> >>> pressure/suction when the valve are actuated, so that doesn't appear
> >>> to be the correct way to do things. I suppose I could tie down one of
> >>> the handles with string, but I don't like doing things with baling
> >>> wire, string, chewing gum, or bungee cords. Does anyone know of the
> >>> "correct" way of tapping into the system to bring hydraulics out to
> >>> the back of the tractor? I am guessing that might include some kind of
> >>> diverter valve ahead of the tractor's valve bank.
> >>>
> >>> I do have a Farmall 560 with a pair of lines extended out to the back,
> >>> but I have not traced them forward to see how they are plumbed or even
> >>> checked to see if they have full time pressure. (And it is just too
> >>> damn cold to do something like that right now!)
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> Mike
> >>>
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> >>
> >>
> >
>
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