[Farmall] Riggin up an auxiliary hydraulic port

Wed Feb 7 12:47:22 PST 2007

Hi Paul,

I have not used my splitter in a couple years, but I am sure the 
cylinder is not over 3" by about 20"  or 22" stroke. It is sort of a 
backward set up because the ram head is on the cylinder while the wedge 
is fixed  at the outboard end.  It is a manufactured unit, but I can't 
recall the brand.  When I get over being a shut in I will check it out 
and snap a picture or two.  At any rate, a friend brought a pick up load 
of red oak knarls that were left over from his hand splitting.  He had 
given up on these.  Anything that we couldn't do with the splitter ended 
up being just splinters, so the power is pretty good.  The PO of this 
splitter heated his large home with only red oak from his farm.  He used 
this splitter on a Jubilee Ford to make 30 or so cord a year and was 
pleased with it.

Getting to your question, my 340 only has the original internal pump and 
I am not sure which gpm model it is.  I think maybe the higher volume 
option because it can make the 3 pt. hitch literally jump up and down 
and I think that is a 4" cylinder.  My splitter cylinder may take three 
seconds or four to run full stroke.  It runs just as fast on the load 
stroke as on the return. I have stalled the ram occasionally when 
directly on a knot.  I just back off, turn the chunk a little and have 
another go at it.  That normally works.  With the control valve right on 
the splitter, it will go through wood a lot faster than I can feed it 
and clear the pieces away. I should also state that I only run the 
tractor RPM at around 900 to 950.  Being the conservative that I am, I 
prefer to go a little slower or stall on a tough piece of wood than to 
have all the power I need to shatter steel and have a piece fly through 
my aging brain.

Others may offer you a lot more information on pump volume and pressure 
than I can.  Without math calculations for volume needed vs. supply, I 
can only guess, but it sounds like your supply should do a good job on 
the splitter you are looking at.   My original thinking was that if an 
eight HP motor could run a splitter, the 340  with 30 some HP should  
too.  (simple thinker). 

Hope this offers a little help.  Just MHO.

Charlie V. in WNY

Paul Sigmund wrote:
> Say Birddog,
>
> I've been reading this thread with interest also.  I have a 340U with the
> external hydraulic pump, which according to the manual is rated 9 GPM at
> 1500 psig.  Have you found your 340U has adequate flow and pressure to
> operate your log splitter?  I've been considering the 3 point splitter in
> the Northern Hydraulics catalog, which has a 4 inch x 24 inch piston and I
> wasn't sure if I had enough pressure.  I'd be very interested in your
> experience with yours.
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul in NJ
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "birddog" <cvill at frontiernet.net>
> To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 12:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] Riggin up an auxiliary hydraulic port
>
>
>   
>> Hello, Mr. Mike and list,
>>
>> My 340U has the lines with couplers at the rear as well as a mid tractor
>> set.  I have never had reason to use the mid set.  I only have a single
>> control lever.  Do not know if the mid couplers  are pressured all the
>> time, or just an extension from the rear controlled set.  A school which
>> was the PO used a sidewalk plow on the front and a salter on the back,
>> so they may have had another valve body for the plow.
>>
>> The rear set normally operate the 3 pt. hitch cylinder.  When I have
>> used my log splitter, I mounted it into the hitch, positioned it where
>> needed and set the outer end on a large chunk of wood.  Then I can
>> easily unhook the hitch hoses and couple the splitter hoses.  (My
>> splitter is a horizontal wedge type).  To get past your bailing wire
>> stigma, use my method.  "Regular black rubber bungy strap."  If I
>> remember, I hook it form the control lever one of the brake pedals.
>> This has worked just fine for me whenever needed.  The by pass on the
>> tractor seems to deal with it just fine and I have total splitter
>> control from the valve on the splitter.
>>
>> One of the bad things about bad weather is that it gives a man too much
>> time to think.  (Grin)
>>
>> Charlie V in sunny but cold WNY
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike Sloane wrote:
>>     
>>> I have a Farmall 340, and I am thinking about installing a three point
>>> log splitter that takes the pressure from the tractor's hydraulic
>>> system. I know that the two sets of ports on the 340 only have
>>> pressure/suction when the valve are actuated, so that doesn't appear
>>> to be the correct way to do things. I suppose I could tie down one of
>>> the handles with string, but I don't like doing things with baling
>>> wire, string, chewing gum, or bungee cords. Does anyone know of the
>>> "correct" way of tapping into the system to bring hydraulics out to
>>> the back of the tractor? I am guessing that might include some kind of
>>> diverter valve ahead of the tractor's valve bank.
>>>
>>> I do have a Farmall 560 with a pair of lines extended out to the back,
>>> but I have not traced them forward to see how they are plumbed or even
>>> checked to see if they have full time pressure. (And it is just too
>>> damn cold to do something like that right now!)
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>>       
>> _______________________________________________
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>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>>
>>     
>
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