[AT] Compression values and range

Steve W. falcon at telenet.net
Fri Sep 29 15:22:15 PDT 2006


Rick,
   The cleaner is a liquid. When it gets into the combustion chamber and 
does it's work it also cleans out carbon and sludge buildup as it seeps 
past the rings. When you start the engine up this cleaner is pushed into 
the sump, along with any that gets blown by the rings from compression. 
That cleaner is carrying some of the carbon from the cylinder and it is 
still cleaning as it enters the oil system. There are a lot of places in 
an engine that get hot enough to carburize oil and it starts cleaning 
those as well as cleaning sludge. All of that crud gets dumped into the 
oil.

Rick Weaver wrote:
> Maybe a stupid question, but why does cleaning out the combustion
> pathways cause so much crud in the oil pathways?
> 
> Rick 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Steve W.
> Sent: Friday, September 29, 2006 1:30 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] Compression values and range
> 
> Yep water works real good. If you want to do a decarborizing on a newer 
> vehicle with all the sensors it won't work as well because of those 
> sensors. So go to your local GM dealer(or REAL good parts store) and buy
> 
> a bottle of GM top engine cleaner. This stuff will clean out carbon and 
> crud like you won't believe.
> The short version of the directions for use is to start the engine, warm
> 
> it up good, then SLOWLY pour it into the engine. Keep putting it in 
> there until the engine actually shuts down. Now let it soak for 30-45 
> minutes. Start the engine back up and give it some throttle to keep it 
> running.
> The directions say it will cause some smoke. They lie IT CAUSES A CLOUD 
> OF SMOKE LIKE A SMOKE GENERATOR ON A TANK..... DO NOT USE IN A GARAGE. 
> Don't have the exhaust pipe pointing at ANYTHING of value. Even 4-5 feet
> 
> away will get spattered with carbon. One it is running ok take it for a 
> short drive to get the engine hot. The vehicle will be smoking like a 
> chimney for a while so don't drive in an area you ever want to return 
> to. Now once you have burnt all the cleaner off take it back to the 
> house and change the oil and filter. The oil is going to be BLACK. GM 
> says to change it once, I usually buy some lower priced oil and a GOOD 
> filter. Run it on that oil for 100-200 miles and then change it again 
> with good oil. That way you flush a LOT more of the crud out.
> 
> This stuff will work on just about any engine (can even be mixed into 2 
> stroke fuel to cut the carbon in them).
> 
> Ed Stewart wrote:
>> Here is a little tip worth trying if you suspect carbon built up on 
>> valve seats. My dad showed me this about fifty years on a F-20 that
> you 
>> could hear compression leaking out the exhaust when pulling the crank 
>> slowly through compression. I have done this many times since. Start
> the 
>> engine allow it to thoroughly warm up, increase the throttle and
> squrit 
>> water into the carb at a rate that does not kill the engine, you will 
>> have a bunch of steam coming out the exhaust. The water and resulting 
>> steam cleans any carbon buildup from everywhere in the combustion 
>> chamber and many times I have seen lower compression rate climb 
>> considerably. After he showed me the ol F-20 didn't hiss by the valves
> 
>> anymore and ran a lot better. I have done this with cars, tractors, 
>> lawnmowers and several hitnmiss engines. Ed
>>
>> Dean Vinson wrote:
>>> Mike Sloane wrote:
>>>
>>>  
> 
> 

-- 
Steve W.
Near Cooperstown, New York

Pacifism - The theory that if they'd fed
Jeffrey Dahmer enough human flesh,
he'd have become a vegan.



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