[AT] Cub Cadet 129

Larry D. Goss rlgoss at evansville.net
Fri Oct 6 19:04:06 PDT 2006


Well--- I don't know that the 200-foot limit is that cut and dried,
Dave.  There's oil in the pump all the time.  Pushing down on the two
valves just short the fluid circuit so you can move the tractor by
turning the fluid motor portion of the drive unit.

It really gets scary if you push the valves down and one or both of them
don't come back up.  When that happens, you end up with forward or
reverse motion, or no motion at all.  Fortunately, the valves are not
only spring loaded, but also are closed by hydraulic pressure from the
pump.  So they'll eventually close again.

One of the early CC hydro units does have a serious lubrication problem,
but it is in the gear case, not the actual pump.  They put a hydro unit
on the tractor which had the input and output shafts concentric with
each other and separated with an unsealed and poorly lubricated needle
bearing that runs continuously.  When the bearing burns up (which it
will), rebuilding it can be very expensive.  Fortunately, the hydro unit
will not be hurt, but the input and output gears can be toast.  When it
is rebuilt, fill the entire cavity of the differential with Snapper "00"
grease or the equivalent.  It will take about a quart.  Having that much
lube around the bearings and gears keeps them cool enough not to burn
again. 

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Dave Merchant
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 12:38 PM
To: Antique tractor email discussion group
Cc: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: [AT] Cub Cadet 129

Yeah, that sounds like the one I have, silly little silver lever.

200 feet is far enough to get it back I guess, but it takes a couple
people 
to push it
very far on our property, and one has to be leaning down to hold the
little 
lever...!
I suppose it's a matter of no lubrication circulating when it's not
running(?)

If the problem ever arises, I'll probably use the boom pole on the NAA
to
pick up the back end + tow truck it home...but that means I need to fix
the bad ground on the NAA first!

P.O. isn't sure whether he might have the owner's manual around
somewhere,
maybe I'll get it eventually.

It's been too wet to really try it out yet, but it runs pretty good,
seems 
to take a decent cut.
Brakes are either way out of adjustment, or need new pads, need to 
investigate soon.

Now I'm in the market for seats for both the 128 + 129, both are cut up 
pretty bad.

Dave


At 12:48 PM 10/6/2006, Greg Hass wrote:

>I have a 109 which I think is just the 10 hp. ; where you I think have
the 
>12 hp. version of the 9 series. I read the post from Mike Sloane but I 
>think his may be different. Mine has a round lever on the right side of

>the middle between the seat and the front part. It will, as you said,
only 
>move a few degrees and does NOT lock. Force it too much and you will
break 
>a small roll pin on it. Underneath attached to the lever is a curved 2
in. 
>wide flat spring. It pushes down on two 1/8 inch pins that come out of
the 
>top of the transmission and they only go down less than 1/4 inch and,
yes 
>you must hold the lever while moving it. I'm not sure, but I think I
read 
>that you can move them 200 ft. while not running. They do use Hy-Tran.
If 
>you want to be sure, remove the four screws or bolts that hold the
cover 
>on that the lever goes through and you will see what I am talking
about; 
>unless you have a model completely different than I am thinking.
>Greg Hass
>Michigan
>
>_______________________________________________
>AT mailing list
>Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at

Dave Merchant
kosh at nesys.com
nesys_com at ameritech.net

http://www.nesys.com
http://www.nesys.org


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