[AJD] Model B Rod Torque

[Mike Scholl]

Regarding shims...

Several years ago a neighbor asked me to get his '37 B back to a usable 
state.  The engine ran, but had a bad piston knock as a result of bad rod.  
My wife's grandfather had a good replacement rod in his shed, but I also 
needed to find shims.

I didn't take much to locate a couple of rolls of brass shim-stock (of 
varying thicknesses).  I simply cut the shims from that stock and I was good 
to go.  Any good machine shop should be able to point you to a source of 
shim stock.

Although it's a cheap alternative, I would NOT recommend using beer can 
metal as aluminum and iron chemically react with each other and can cause 
problems down the road.

Good Luck,
Mike


>From: "Dave Ernst" <shop at cccomm.net>
>Reply-To: Antique John Deere mailing 
>list<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>To: "Antique John Deere mailing 
>list"<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Subject: Re: [AJD] Model B Rod Torque
>Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 06:44:11 -0800
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "bill gray" <billgrayalt at yahoo.com>
>To: "Antique John Deere mailing list" 
><antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 9:40 PM
>Subject: RE: [AJD] Model B Rod Torque
>
>
>>Lou,
>>  Thanks I will try that torque.  The manual I had just said to tighten 
>>the bolts. You are correct the shims are available from Deere at ners 
>>$40.00 each. I may try the beer can plan mentioned by Bill Brueck.
>>
>>Louis Spiegelberg <louis at kellnet.com> wrote:
>>  Bill,
>>
>>According to my IT manual; the torque should be 62.5 ft-lb.
>
>Just how many torque wrenches do you suppose were out there when the model 
>B was made?
>The advent of the torque tightening method circumvented the use of castle 
>nuts. When I do an engine overhaul, no castle nuts-then torque.  Castle 
>nuts, then tighten.
>Set the clearances you want, tighten the nut wrench tight, install cotter 
>pin and call it good.
>Dave
>
>
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