[AT] pulling sleeves
steve sewell
sewell at oak.cats.ohiou.edu
Tue Mar 21 23:06:49 PST 2006
At 12:52 AM 3/22/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>Steve you probably remember that big 4 cylinder in the D-7 then I worked on
>a lot of those the army had them all over the place. Mostly D7-F then they
>went to the D7-E with the smaller 6 cylinder. That big sleeve on the
>E was
>pretty easy to get in and out due to its size. But you couldn't get
>it to go
>all the way in the book said to not worry about that as the head
>would push it
>in when you put it on.
Yep, the head would set that last top o-ring down. ( or was it a D-ring at
the top of the liner. I don't remember? ) Put the compression on it to
seal. This was common to most all except the spacer plate engines. These
required a steel shim for the correct height. Then the plate - then the
head was bolted on. This was done a lot on D8's and 9's. The top bore in
these engines tended to sink a bit due to the block design. So the top
'seat' for the liner was uneven at rebuild time. So you milled the block
and seats ( counter bore in the block) and had to check for even liner
height. Within a year or so Cat came up with the "spacer plate' engine from
the factory. Instead of the 'seat' that the liner was to rest in ( or
counter bore ), it now rest on top of the block , that can be milled flat
at rebuild. And a spacer plate was installed to take up the space between
the block and head.
I got real good at fixing those older style blocks with a line bore machine.
> You right they must be clean and all sharp edges
>removed. A smal burr can be detrimental.
BIG TIME. Attention to detail is important !
>
>Walt Davies
>Cooper Hollow Farm
>Monmouth, OR 97361
>503 623-0460
- Steve
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