[Steam-engine] Lunk Jr. now rebuilding hand valves and such

[Richard Strobel]

yea..thanks guys.  We got into buffing a year or so ago and it's a nice way 
to pass the time on a cold winter day.  We weren't sure at first who made 
this displacement oiler until we buffed it and it brought out the barely 
readable " Lunkenheimer Jr."

  Regarding the glass tube, I reckon we're all on the same sheet of music. 
Thanks for your input.  We also have a Lunk. water glass and was surprised 
to see OEM check balls behind both handvalves.  Which now brings up a topic 
I've been wanting to ask about.

  How do you folks get old brass hand valves, check valves and such to shut 
off tight?  I've tried some lapping compound without good results.  Trycocks 
I've repoured the lead/babbit pots and have had good luck doing that.  The 
brass to brass sealing surfaces are kinda kickin' my butt tho.  I don't use 
gate valves on steam, er I try not to.

Regards
RickinMt.














> Looks like Rick has polished his socks off.  I agree
> with Lawrence. Go with the 5/8" tube.  Just get the
> right size rubbers that fit the glass and fit in the
> packing gland.  How big is the hole in the packing
> nut?  How big is the ID of the packing hole?  I'm not
> sure about the "no wrenches" policy for sight glasses.
>  Try hand tight first but you may need to use a
> wrench.  (I would be afraid to put a wrench on
> something that pretty)  Lawrence made a good point
> about messing with these things while they have
> pressure on them.  I think that those fellows should
> have turned off the valves to the glass before
> attempting to tighten the nuts.  The instructors at
> steam school advised us the never try to work on pipes
> with live steam on them for this very reason.
>
> --- Lawrence Swanz <LSwanz at superioriron.com> wrote:
>
> > Rick,
> >
> > I can't hardly believe that the before picture could
> > actually be the same lubricator as pictured in the
> > second photo.  If they are the same, then you did an
> > outstanding job cleaning that unit up.  As for the
> > glass, I would say that a 5/8" O.D. tube is the
> > ticket.  Don't know about whether to put a wrench to
> > the packing nut is acceptable or not, but if you had
> > to stop any leaks, and I'm sure this goes without
> > say, but be darn careful as to not over tighten and
> > crack the glass.  I watched someone do this on a
> > water glass and didn't find that magic spot.  It
> > wasn't long and the glass exploded and they did the
> > jump of joy on the gang plate as they tried to get
> > the valves shut off while being sprayed with hot
> > steamy water.  Guess this is another good argument
> > for replacing your water column with a new style
> > that has a ball bearing in it for self sealing
> > should the glass break.  That is yet for another
> > discussion.  On a side note, I liked the white socks
> > that got caught in the pho!
> >  to.  You had them there so we could identify actual
> > size of the lubricator, right! (Haa Haa).
> >
> > Lawrence