[AT] A long shot--Wisconsin part
John Wilkens
jwilkens at eoni.com
Wed Jun 28 07:38:00 PDT 2006
Well, I see there's a lot more to know about welding rod than I
realized! It'd be interesting to know more about that "rub on
carbon" that filled the pores. John
At 05:41 AM 06/28/2006, you wrote:
>Hi, 7018 seems to do a good job also if you have a dc machine, I
>don't so I buy 7018ac they work ok on ac but still are hard to keep
>burning although they start a lot better than a straight 7018, my
>Dad used to buy Lincolin number 375 for cast iron they did a fine
>job wielding up the head of an F20 that cracked sorta zigzaged
>between the valve springs when we somehow forgot to drain the water
>and it froze. As soon as the wield was done there was a fat stick of
>carbon looking stuff you rubbed on the wield and it sucked in and
>filled any pores. The F20 ran for many years after the repair..
>
>ivan wrote:
>>John , I used a stick welder on ac . No not nickel , but they are for cast
>>iron . The weld is not shiney at all like a nickel rod would look . I got
>>them at the local welding place . I think they were made by UTP ,anyhow they
>>dont carry them any more .
>> I also have some "Forney" brand and again they are not nickel either .
>> I have heard of some guys using an ac 7018 for old cast iron but nvere
>>tried it . Ivan
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
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>>Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>>http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>
>>
>
>--
>Ed Stewart
>Reynoldsville, Pennsylvania
>15851
>
>This email generated without the help of Micro$0ft,
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>There is a crack in everything. That's how the light gets in. "L.Cohen"
>
>_______________________________________________
>AT mailing list
>Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
In the wide-open spaces of NE Oregon
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