[Farmall] Farmall 340 Not starting

[Jim Hudson]

I have not read all this but I think it may be of some help.
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/spark.htm

> Bigdog.  Should I not get a spark when I take the main wire running from
> the coil to the distributor and put the distributor end near a ground, 
> such
> as frame of the tractor or the + wire on the side of the distributor and
> then crank the tractor?  I am not.   So it would appear no voltage is
> running from the coil to the distributor.  Don't know why or the 
> remedy...or
> am I doing some faulty thinking.
>
> Larry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Bigdog
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 9:59 AM
> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] Farmall 340 Not starting
>
> Larry,
>    Some of your description is not clear to me so pardon me if I repeat
> what has been said.  The current path for the ignition system would run 
> from
>
> the battery (ignition switch) to the coil (-) terminal (if it is a 
> positive
> ground system), then through the coil primary winding to the (+) terminal
> then through a wire to the distributor side post where it would pass 
> through
>
> the points to ground.  As the points open and close it creates a momentary
> or pulsating current flow through the coil primary winding which generates 
> a
>
> high voltage in the secondary of the coil.
>    Thus, per George's description, if you open and close the points with a
> screwdriver you will replicate the action of the lobes on the distributor
> and it should produce a spark at the secondary.  It is important to 
> remember
>
> that the spark is generated during the building and collapse of the
> electro-magnetic field in the primary so the pulsating current is 
> necessary
> to generate a spark.
>    If I interpret your descriptions correctly, it sounds like the coil is
> intact.  You must verify that the points are opening and closing to 
> generate
>
> the spark.  Also, the condensor is in parallel with the points and a 
> shorted
>
> condensor will negate the opening of the points.
>    I have been quite busy lately and have not kept up with this thread
> totally so I'm not fully aware of what you have and have not done but I 
> see
> that you did replace the points and condensor.  It is not unusual to find
> new points glazed over right out of the package so I would burnish them to
> assure contact.
>    I would crank it over with the distributor cap off to verify opening 
> and
>
> closing of the points, then make sure the points are clean and not burned.
> Perform George's test by using the screwdriver to open the points and
> checking for spark at that point.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: Larry Hardesty
> To: 'Farmall/IHC mailing list'
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2006 10:34 AM
> Subject: RE: [Farmall] Farmall 340 Not starting
>
>
> George,  I put a new coil on.  However, no spark to the points.  I took 
> the
> wire off from the coil to the distributor and flashed it to ground.  No
> spark.  I checked and run a wire from the negative to positive side of 
> input
> to the coil and got a spark.  So I have spark going into the coil.  Now it
> is a new coil.
>
> Also, I connected battery cables from the battery to the positive and
> negative side of the coil and got some spark.  So some voltage going 
> through
> the coil, but I would say not much.  I did this with the coil I took off 
> and
> got the same.
>
> Can a new coil be bad; or would there be something happening to make a new
> coil go bad?  Got me baffled
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Larry
>
> /farmall
>
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