[AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

Thu Jan 12 10:15:07 PST 2006

opps sorry was to go to Greg.......I know pay attention!!

Frank
gremaux at tein.net
Central Montana
http://www.angelfire.com/mt/deeregp/index.html
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank" <gremaux at tein.net>
To: "Antique John Deere mailing list" 
<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: [AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

> Greg:
>
> will take in trade for your purchase an equal amount of the Deere glands 
> and nuts.....
>
> thanks
> Frank
> gremaux at tein.net
> Central Montana
> http://www.angelfire.com/mt/deeregp/index.html
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <greg at theoldtractorcompany.com>
> To: "Antique John Deere mailing list" 
> <antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO
>
>
>>
>> Yes, A258R still available from JD and we've made them in brass also 
>> altho I forget at present
>> why we did!  I think it does double duty somewhere else and so we made it 
>> in brass
>> Greg
>>
>>
>> Greg Stephen
>> The Old Tractor Company
>> Stephen Equipment Company
>> PO Box 709
>> Franktown, CO 80116
>> 303-663-5246
>> 303-468-0377 FAX<<--GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!
>>
>> On Sat Jan  7 17:40 , Chris C <jdnutinwa at yahoo.com> sent:
>>
>>>Greg,
>>>
>>>      Do you have the fitting that goes from the
>>>carb/fuel sediment bowl to the gland nut?  I stopped
>>>in to torment ly local parts guy with one today and of
>>>course they can't figure it out.  Part number is A258R
>>>according to my A book.
>>>
>>>                          Chris
>>>
>>>--- greg at theoldtractorcompany.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> First off, steel fuel line glands are still
>>>> available from JD albeit at $9.75 a pop
>>>> Years ago we repro'd them in brass as they solder
>>>> easier and are only $4.25
>>>> The nuts, in steel, also from JD are $3.40 but they
>>>> can normally be reused. The
>>>> problem we had was that on the earlier tractors,
>>>> which I personally prefer-those from
>>>> the 20's and 30's, the fuel line nuts were brass. So
>>>> we made those in brass and they
>>>> are $3.00 each
>>>> That being said, and correct me if I'm wrong Duane,
>>>> Deere did on some fuel lines
>>>> attach them with some sort of hydrogen brazing I
>>>> think it was? They had had some
>>>> problems with chaff fires on tractors at some point
>>>> which caused the fuel lines to
>>>> unsolder and pretty well fanned the fire and made
>>>> things worse. Or so I was told. I
>>>> also think that sometimes the solder is just nearly
>>>> solid due to age and they
>>>> fittings simply can't be removed
>>>>
>>>> My two cents worth on yet ANOTHER beautiful 65+
>>>> degree day in Colorful Colorado!!
>>>>
>>>> Greg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Greg Stephen
>>>> The Old Tractor Company
>>>> Stephen Equipment Company
>>>> PO Box 709
>>>> Franktown, CO 80116
>>>> 303-663-5246
>>>> 303-468-0377 FAX
>>>>
>>>> On Sat Jan  7  8:04 , 'Dave Ernst' shop at cccomm.net>
>>>> sent:
>>>>
>>>> >I had the same problem with this D I'm working on.
>>>> What I finally did was to
>>>> >fake it. I drilled out a larger piece of tubing so
>>>> the ID fit the OD of the
>>>> >gas line cut it to the length that originally
>>>> protruded beyond the end of
>>>> >the nut and then used a ferrule on the original
>>>> line. Can't tell the
>>>> >difference.
>>>> >
>>>> >Dave
>>>> >----- Original Message ----- 
>>>> >From: "Bill Brueck" b2 at chooka.net>
>>>> >To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'"
>>>> >antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>>> >Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 8:10 PM
>>>> >Subject: [AJD] Deere fuel line technique...I need a
>>>> nudge
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >>
>>>> >> I'm working on my H again, chasing down the last
>>>> seep in the fuel system.
>>>> >> Thanks Ron and others, for the tip on Fuelube /
>>>> EZTurn, that sealed the
>>>> >> valve right up and also got the needle seat to
>>>> seal in the carb body.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Then I noticed a little seep in the main fuel
>>>> line.  Hey, no probs, I'll
>>>> >> just unsolder those glands off the ends, bend up
>>>> some new tubing, solder
>>>> >> the
>>>> >> glands on, and it would be good as new.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> One gland came right off and soldered onto the
>>>> new line just fine.  But I
>>>> >> can't get the other one apart.  On to the junk
>>>> box, found 2 more glands
>>>> >> with
>>>> >> stubs of tubing in them.  Can't get one of those
>>>> loose either, and thought
>>>> >> before I started on the last one I'd better come
>>>> up for air.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Started with propane heat, then advanced to
>>>> acetylene.  Get the glands
>>>> >> nice
>>>> >> and red, have a place where I can get some decent
>>>> pull and a little twist
>>>> >> on
>>>> >> them, but no budge.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Other than giving up being stubborn and paying
>>>> Robert's $6.18 for new ones
>>>> >> (cripes, at that price I'm ashamed to admit I've
>>>> spent a few hours on this
>>>> >> already...oh, well, doing things the smart way
>>>> never was a strong suit of
>>>> >> mine...), anybody got a technique in your back
>>>> pocket that would help me
>>>> >> here?
>>>> >>
>>>> >> And I've got nothing against Roberts, in case one
>>>> wonders.  He's been real
>>>> >> helpful, and I even bought a carb for my AR from
>>>> him a while back.  It was
>>>> >> a
>>>> >> work of art, all painted with the brass plugs
>>>> shined and put on after the
>>>> >> paint job, it was a work of art.  Kind of hate to
>>>> put fuel in.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Thanks for help, once again!
>>>> >>
>>>> >> B²
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Bill Brueck (brick)
>>>> >> Chatfield, MN, USA
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than
>>>> ignorance.
>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >> _______________________________________________
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>>>> >>
>>>>
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>>>> >>
>>>> >>
>>>> >
>>>> >
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>>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
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