[AJD] corks

wwwayne johnson wjohnson at bigriver.net
Fri Jan 13 18:14:55 PST 2006


Bill
Those holes are threaded with a special tap that cuts an interferance thread 
so the stud will be tight in the hole and not back out when you remove the 
nut.  Try screwing a bolt in the hole and you'll see what I mean.  Also, the 
housings are not just plain cast.  It cuts easy, but the housings are almost 
cast steel.
Merle Wayne
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Brueck" <b2 at chooka.net>
To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'" 
<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 12:52 PM
Subject: RE: [AJD] corks


>I can assure you that both the axle and the nuts are right hand thread.  I
> ran a tap down the holes in the axle housings.  Of course, maybe that's 
> why
> the taps turned so darn hard, LOL.
>
> Also, you can stick a 9/16 cap screw in any hole and use that if you don't
> have clearance for the big nuts.
>
> This project sure dulled my tap.  Is cast iron rust especially hard?  I 
> kept
> them all oiled in the process but the tap turned harder with each hole I
> cleaned up.  I didn't do them all at once, combination of boring work as
> well as kind of strained my old muscles.
>
>>
> Bill Brueck (brick)
> Chatfield, MN, USA
>
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Dean VP
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 12:03 PM
> To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
> Subject: RE: [AJD] corks
>
> Bill:
>
> Now I feel really stupid w/o going and taking a look. But aren't the 
> threads
> reversed?
>
> Dean A. Van Peursem
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> Forbidden fruits create many jams!
>
> www.deerelegacy.com
>
> http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Bill Brueck
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 9:41 AM
> To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
> Subject: RE: [AJD] corks
>
> Sounds like one could fabricate the studs with threaded rod and welding a
> little bead around them at the right spot.  Although, with all the salvage
> tractors around and the fact (I think) that these are all the same, there
> should be an ample supply of the real thing.  I have a bin where I've been
> pitching mine, have no recollection where most of them came from.  And 
> they
> are on eBay all the time.
>
>>
> Bill Brueck (brick)
> Chatfield, MN, USA
>
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Dean VP
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 10:49 AM
> To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
> Subject: RE: [AJD] corks
>
> Bill:
>
> Ok, we are off and running. Way back when I got my first H, which seems 
> like
> a 100 years ago now, I had a local shop fabricate a plate with two holes 
> for
> the bottom two hex nut/studs on the H and then had them weld a sleeve for 
> a
> D ring to hang in. I use that for chaining down on the trailer. I liked it
> so much I had another made for the wider bolt hole pattern tractors as 
> well.
> I didn't have my welder yet when I was doing this.
>
> However, now for the heavier tractors I have gone to heavy hooks bolted
> under the front of the frame and chained toward the middle from the front
> and from the rear with a clevis in the front hole of the drawbar. I like 
> the
> inward chain method much better and it is almost required when multiple
> tractors are hauled at the same time. I think it is much safer too.
>
> A lot of guys use the cultivator quick attach plate on the bottom front 
> two
> studs and then drill a hole in the front edge of the slip plate using a
> clevis on it. I have a couple of those plates but I don't particularly 
> like
> the looks of them on a tractor at a show. When I was on the farm every
> tractor had one of these with the hole drilled in them. Really worked good
> for backing wagons into tight places. I know as I age I can't see behind 
> me
> nearly as well so if I had to do a lot of stuff like that, my cultivator
> plates would get mounted quite quickly I think.
>
> I haven't spent a lot of time trying to find new studs for the hex nuts
> since I have so many used ones available now but as I recall the threaded
> studs that JD used are slightly different than what we can buy today. As I
> recall they were threaded on way with a ridge and then threaded the other
> way. The threaded portion that goes into the axle housing or pedestal is
> shorter than the other end. I'm sure the ridge was there to keep us from
> driving the threads in to far into the casting. I haven't purchased
> aftermarket studs for a long time but as I recall they have equal amount 
> of
> threads at each end and the bulge isn't nearly as pronounced. I do know 
> they
> are a bit pricey.
>
> Dean A. Van Peursem
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> Forbidden fruits create many jams!
>
> www.deerelegacy.com
>
> http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Bill Brueck
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 7:50 AM
> To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
> Subject: RE: [AJD] corks
>
> Well, duh, I hadn't thought of looking at the axle housing assembly
> pictures.  I was trying to find pictures of tractors and wasn't finding 
> the
> right shots to tell.  That's pretty definitive, and the front pedestal 
> shows
> the same level of specificity, consistent with your words below.  I'm 
> going
> to screw the 3 studs into each side on the back of the axle and find nuts 
> to
> put on them.
>
> I did compromise on the front pedestal with my project.  Bought one of 
> those
> front hitch plates and put it on there.  I though this would make a good
> place to hook a chain without skinning up the paint when I haul it on a
> trailer.
>
> I think you're right about the acorn nut definition.  I was picking up on
> what I see used when these are sold on eBay.
>
>>
> Bill Brueck (brick)
> Chatfield, MN, USA
>
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Dean VP
> Sent: Friday, January 13, 2006 1:00 AM
> To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
> Subject: RE: [AJD] corks
>
> Bill:
>
> An interesting question and the answer I think is very tractor model
> dependent. For example, I looked at the H rear axle housing in the Parts
> Catalog. It shows that three hex nuts and studs were used on each axle
> housing, but only only on the rear and their position is detailed. None 
> are
> shown on the front of the axle housing in the PC illustration.
>
> My guess is that "how many were used" could be figured out from each Parts
> Catalog.  Now as far as the H front ones go, as I recall the top two on my
> two H's had 5/8" cap screws in them and the bottom two had the same hex 
> nuts
> and studs. The Parts Catalog illustration verifies that. However, I am
> unable to physically and quickly go look at them since they are at another
> location.
>
> I don't know if they were added at the factory or at the dealer but my 
> guess
> would be they were installed at the factory.
>
> Have you noticed that there is a US seller selling new reproduction hex 
> nuts
> on eBay?  $2.00 ea.  Over the years I have gathered up several whenever I
> found used ones at swap meets etc, and would buy them if I could get them
> for less than $2.00 each.  JD's price for new ones used to be something 
> like
> $7 to $9.00 a piece. Now I just noticed they are $3.20 ea.  Wow, one of 
> JD's
> part numbers went down in cost. What is the world coming too? I wonder if
> they still look like the originals.
>
> I haven't seen these new eBay reproduction versions so I don't know how 
> well
> they emulate the original but I do know there are at least two different
> versions of the hex nuts. I suspect the part number didn't change when the
> physical dimensions of the hex nut changed.
>
> Your nomenclature, calling these nuts, Acorn nuts is quite common and I 
> have
> seen this term used quite often. However, I have always thought acorn nuts
> were rounded on top and enclosed such as those used on many, but not all, 
> of
> the tappet covers on the two cylinder tractors. JD, in their Parts 
> Catalogs,
> calls them (Special) Hex Nuts. So much for trivia!  :-)
>
> Dean A. Van Peursem
> Snohomish, WA 98290
>
> Forbidden fruits create many jams!
>
> www.deerelegacy.com
>
> http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> Bill Brueck
> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:26 AM
> To: 'Antique John Deere mailing list'
> Subject: RE: [AJD] corks
>
> Good source, I will be giving them a call.
>
> When these tractors came off the line, were the studs and acorn nuts in
> place on the axels or where they delivered in a bag or in the tool box or
> something?  If in place, was there a consistent pattern of how many and
> which holes?  How about the font pedestal holes as well?
>
> For restoration I'd kind of like to just leave them off, they are just
> places for people to get bruised and for clothing to catch.
>
>>
> Bill Brueck (brick)
> Chatfield, MN, USA
>
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
> wwwayne johnson
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2006 7:36 PM
> To: Antique John Deere mailing list
> Subject: [AJD] corks
>
> For those of you that want to plug up your bolt holes as JD did, American
> Science and Surplus, Ph 888-724-7587has a package 20 for $2.00 PN 23594.
> 9/16 bottom. 11/16 top, 7/8 long.
> Merle Wayne
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
>
> 





More information about the AT mailing list