[AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

Thu Jan 12 08:48:38 PST 2006

Greg:

will take in trade for your purchase an equal amount of the Deere glands and 
nuts.....

thanks
Frank
gremaux at tein.net
Central Montana
http://www.angelfire.com/mt/deeregp/index.html
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <greg at theoldtractorcompany.com>
To: "Antique John Deere mailing list" 
<antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2006 3:58 PM
Subject: Re: [AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

>
> Yes, A258R still available from JD and we've made them in brass also altho 
> I forget at present
> why we did!  I think it does double duty somewhere else and so we made it 
> in brass
> Greg
>
>
> Greg Stephen
> The Old Tractor Company
> Stephen Equipment Company
> PO Box 709
> Franktown, CO 80116
> 303-663-5246
> 303-468-0377 FAX<<--GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!
>
> On Sat Jan  7 17:40 , Chris C <jdnutinwa at yahoo.com> sent:
>
>>Greg,
>>
>>      Do you have the fitting that goes from the
>>carb/fuel sediment bowl to the gland nut?  I stopped
>>in to torment ly local parts guy with one today and of
>>course they can't figure it out.  Part number is A258R
>>according to my A book.
>>
>>                          Chris
>>
>>--- greg at theoldtractorcompany.com wrote:
>>
>>> First off, steel fuel line glands are still
>>> available from JD albeit at $9.75 a pop
>>> Years ago we repro'd them in brass as they solder
>>> easier and are only $4.25
>>> The nuts, in steel, also from JD are $3.40 but they
>>> can normally be reused. The
>>> problem we had was that on the earlier tractors,
>>> which I personally prefer-those from
>>> the 20's and 30's, the fuel line nuts were brass. So
>>> we made those in brass and they
>>> are $3.00 each
>>> That being said, and correct me if I'm wrong Duane,
>>> Deere did on some fuel lines
>>> attach them with some sort of hydrogen brazing I
>>> think it was? They had had some
>>> problems with chaff fires on tractors at some point
>>> which caused the fuel lines to
>>> unsolder and pretty well fanned the fire and made
>>> things worse. Or so I was told. I
>>> also think that sometimes the solder is just nearly
>>> solid due to age and they
>>> fittings simply can't be removed
>>>
>>> My two cents worth on yet ANOTHER beautiful 65+
>>> degree day in Colorful Colorado!!
>>>
>>> Greg
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Greg Stephen
>>> The Old Tractor Company
>>> Stephen Equipment Company
>>> PO Box 709
>>> Franktown, CO 80116
>>> 303-663-5246
>>> 303-468-0377 FAX
>>>
>>> On Sat Jan  7  8:04 , 'Dave Ernst' shop at cccomm.net>
>>> sent:
>>>
>>> >I had the same problem with this D I'm working on.
>>> What I finally did was to
>>> >fake it. I drilled out a larger piece of tubing so
>>> the ID fit the OD of the
>>> >gas line cut it to the length that originally
>>> protruded beyond the end of
>>> >the nut and then used a ferrule on the original
>>> line. Can't tell the
>>> >difference.
>>> >
>>> >Dave
>>> >----- Original Message ----- 
>>> >From: "Bill Brueck" b2 at chooka.net>
>>> >To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'"
>>> >antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>>> >Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 8:10 PM
>>> >Subject: [AJD] Deere fuel line technique...I need a
>>> nudge
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >>
>>> >> I'm working on my H again, chasing down the last
>>> seep in the fuel system.
>>> >> Thanks Ron and others, for the tip on Fuelube /
>>> EZTurn, that sealed the
>>> >> valve right up and also got the needle seat to
>>> seal in the carb body.
>>> >>
>>> >> Then I noticed a little seep in the main fuel
>>> line.  Hey, no probs, I'll
>>> >> just unsolder those glands off the ends, bend up
>>> some new tubing, solder
>>> >> the
>>> >> glands on, and it would be good as new.
>>> >>
>>> >> One gland came right off and soldered onto the
>>> new line just fine.  But I
>>> >> can't get the other one apart.  On to the junk
>>> box, found 2 more glands
>>> >> with
>>> >> stubs of tubing in them.  Can't get one of those
>>> loose either, and thought
>>> >> before I started on the last one I'd better come
>>> up for air.
>>> >>
>>> >> Started with propane heat, then advanced to
>>> acetylene.  Get the glands
>>> >> nice
>>> >> and red, have a place where I can get some decent
>>> pull and a little twist
>>> >> on
>>> >> them, but no budge.
>>> >>
>>> >> Other than giving up being stubborn and paying
>>> Robert's $6.18 for new ones
>>> >> (cripes, at that price I'm ashamed to admit I've
>>> spent a few hours on this
>>> >> already...oh, well, doing things the smart way
>>> never was a strong suit of
>>> >> mine...), anybody got a technique in your back
>>> pocket that would help me
>>> >> here?
>>> >>
>>> >> And I've got nothing against Roberts, in case one
>>> wonders.  He's been real
>>> >> helpful, and I even bought a carb for my AR from
>>> him a while back.  It was
>>> >> a
>>> >> work of art, all painted with the brass plugs
>>> shined and put on after the
>>> >> paint job, it was a work of art.  Kind of hate to
>>> put fuel in.
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks for help, once again!
>>> >>
>>> >> B²
>>> >>
>>> >> Bill Brueck (brick)
>>> >> Chatfield, MN, USA
>>> >>
>>> >> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than
>>> ignorance.
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> _______________________________________________
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>>> >>
>>>
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>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
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>>
>>
>>
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