[AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

Sat Jan 7 19:49:19 PST 2006

Actually by my calculations I will need up to 18 of
them to complete what I am working on now.  I placed
the original order for the 27 D (and never used
them... but I did give enough of them to Jerry with
the tractor to do it's lines)  While it is true that I
am very good and buying a part and letting it sit
around for 10 years before I get to putting it on, 
having lots of the small items like these around help
with the often ignored details that pop up at the last
minute.  And I'm a pack rat.  I just used some wire
hose clamps that I bought from Greg at least 12 years
ago..  I'm out of those now too..

    The AHC will use half of my remaining stock when I
get to putting it back together when I get home from
San Diego.  (Got the block back finally..  .090
oversized and a nice new coat of green)

        Chris

--- Dean VP <deanvp at att.net> wrote:

> Chris:
> 
> Wow, in 20 more years you will have to re-order! 
> :-)
> 
> Dean A. Van Peursem
> Snohomish, WA 98290
> 
> Forbidden fruits create many jams!
> 
> www.deerelegacy.com
> 
> http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of
> Chris C
> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 4:37 PM
> To: Antique John Deere mailing list
> Subject: RE: [AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO
> 
> I just got finished building a fuel line with some
> of
> Greg's products (I ordered a bunch of them about 5
> years ago,  down to 4 left now)  and they work well.
> 
> Hit it with the bead blaster and paint it and no one
> will know it's not steel....
> 
>              Chris
> 
> --- Bill Brueck <b2 at chooka.net> wrote:
> 
> > I just did a search on expansion coefficient and
> > find that copper is 16.5
> > while iron is 11.8.  Thus I expect when I heated
> > things it just would have
> > made the fit tighter.  I'm not sure I'm
> > understanding these numbers right,
> > but it makes sense that way.  Anyway, now I know
> > better than to waste time
> > wrestling with the old glands.
> > 
> > Sounds like those brass glands are an offer I
> can't
> > refuse.  I'll send you a
> > separate email and place an order, Greg.
> > 
> > And the fake tubing with the ferrule sounds like a
> > good solution, Dave.  I
> > wouldn't be above doing it that way, either.  But
> > time is not urgent and the
> > glands are available so I will go that route on
> this
> > project.
> > 
> > Thanks, all!
> > 
> > B²
> >  
> > Bill Brueck (brick)
> > Chatfield, MN, USA
> >  
> > Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than
> > ignorance.
> >  
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
> >
> antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> >
>
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> > On Behalf Of
> > greg at theoldtractorcompany.com
> > Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 10:37 AM
> > To: Antique John Deere mailing list
> > Subject: [AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO
> > 
> > First off, steel fuel line glands are still
> > available from JD albeit at
> > $9.75 a pop Years ago we repro'd them in brass as
> > they solder easier and are
> > only $4.25 The nuts, in steel, also from JD are
> > $3.40 but they can normally
> > be reused. The problem we had was that on the
> > earlier tractors, which I
> > personally prefer-those from the 20's and 30's,
> the
> > fuel line nuts were
> > brass. So we made those in brass and they are
> $3.00
> > each That being said,
> > and correct me if I'm wrong Duane, Deere did on
> some
> > fuel lines attach them
> > with some sort of hydrogen brazing I think it was?
> > They had had some
> > problems with chaff fires on tractors at some
> point
> > which caused the fuel
> > lines to unsolder and pretty well fanned the fire
> > and made things worse. Or
> > so I was told. I also think that sometimes the
> > solder is just nearly solid
> > due to age and they fittings simply can't be
> removed
> > 
> > My two cents worth on yet ANOTHER beautiful 65+
> > degree day in Colorful
> > Colorado!!
> > 
> > Greg
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Greg Stephen
> > The Old Tractor Company
> > Stephen Equipment Company
> > PO Box 709
> > Franktown, CO 80116
> > 303-663-5246
> > 303-468-0377 FAX<<--GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!
> > 
> > On Sat Jan  7  8:04 , 'Dave Ernst'
> <shop at cccomm.net>
> > sent:
> > 
> > >I had the same problem with this D I'm working
> on.
> > What I finally did 
> > >was to fake it. I drilled out a larger piece of
> > tubing so the ID fit 
> > >the OD of the gas line cut it to the length that
> > originally protruded 
> > >beyond the end of the nut and then used a ferrule
> > on the original line. 
> > >Can't tell the difference.
> > >
> > >Dave
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Bill Brueck" b2 at chooka.net>
> > >To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'" 
> > >antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> > >Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 8:10 PM
> > >Subject: [AJD] Deere fuel line technique...I need
> a
> > nudge
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >> I'm working on my H again, chasing down the
> last
> > seep in the fuel system.
> > >> Thanks Ron and others, for the tip on Fuelube /
> > EZTurn, that sealed 
> > >> the valve right up and also got the needle seat
> > to seal in the carb body.
> > >>
> > >> Then I noticed a little seep in the main fuel
> > line.  Hey, no probs, 
> > >> I'll just unsolder those glands off the ends,
> > bend up some new 
> > >> tubing, solder the glands on, and it would be
> > good as new.
> > >>
> > >> One gland came right off and soldered onto the
> > new line just fine.  
> > >> But I can't get the other one apart.  On to the
> > junk box, found 2 
> > >> more glands with stubs of tubing in them. 
> Can't
> > get one of those 
> > >> loose either, and thought before I started on
> the
> > last one I'd better 
> > >> come up for air.
> > >>
> > >> Started with propane heat, then advanced to
> > acetylene.  Get the 
> > >> glands nice and red, have a place where I can
> get
> > some decent pull 
> > >> and a little twist on them, but no budge.
> > >>
> > >> Other than giving up being stubborn and paying
> > Robert's $6.18 for new 
> > >> ones (cripes, at that price I'm ashamed to
> admit
> > I've spent a few 
> > >> hours on this already...oh, well, doing things
> > the smart way never 
> 
=== message truncated ===

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