[AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

Dean VP deanvp at att.net
Sat Jan 7 19:01:45 PST 2006


Chris:

Wow, in 20 more years you will have to re-order!  :-)

Dean A. Van Peursem
Snohomish, WA 98290

Forbidden fruits create many jams!

www.deerelegacy.com

http://members.cox.net/classicweb/email.htm



-----Original Message-----
From: antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of
Chris C
Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 4:37 PM
To: Antique John Deere mailing list
Subject: RE: [AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

I just got finished building a fuel line with some of
Greg's products (I ordered a bunch of them about 5
years ago,  down to 4 left now)  and they work well. 
Hit it with the bead blaster and paint it and no one
will know it's not steel....

             Chris

--- Bill Brueck <b2 at chooka.net> wrote:

> I just did a search on expansion coefficient and
> find that copper is 16.5
> while iron is 11.8.  Thus I expect when I heated
> things it just would have
> made the fit tighter.  I'm not sure I'm
> understanding these numbers right,
> but it makes sense that way.  Anyway, now I know
> better than to waste time
> wrestling with the old glands.
> 
> Sounds like those brass glands are an offer I can't
> refuse.  I'll send you a
> separate email and place an order, Greg.
> 
> And the fake tubing with the ferrule sounds like a
> good solution, Dave.  I
> wouldn't be above doing it that way, either.  But
> time is not urgent and the
> glands are available so I will go that route on this
> project.
> 
> Thanks, all!
> 
>>  
> Bill Brueck (brick)
> Chatfield, MN, USA
>  
> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than
> ignorance.
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
>
[mailto:antique-johndeere-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]
> On Behalf Of
> greg at theoldtractorcompany.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 10:37 AM
> To: Antique John Deere mailing list
> Subject: [AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO
> 
> First off, steel fuel line glands are still
> available from JD albeit at
> $9.75 a pop Years ago we repro'd them in brass as
> they solder easier and are
> only $4.25 The nuts, in steel, also from JD are
> $3.40 but they can normally
> be reused. The problem we had was that on the
> earlier tractors, which I
> personally prefer-those from the 20's and 30's, the
> fuel line nuts were
> brass. So we made those in brass and they are $3.00
> each That being said,
> and correct me if I'm wrong Duane, Deere did on some
> fuel lines attach them
> with some sort of hydrogen brazing I think it was?
> They had had some
> problems with chaff fires on tractors at some point
> which caused the fuel
> lines to unsolder and pretty well fanned the fire
> and made things worse. Or
> so I was told. I also think that sometimes the
> solder is just nearly solid
> due to age and they fittings simply can't be removed
> 
> My two cents worth on yet ANOTHER beautiful 65+
> degree day in Colorful
> Colorado!!
> 
> Greg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greg Stephen
> The Old Tractor Company
> Stephen Equipment Company
> PO Box 709
> Franktown, CO 80116
> 303-663-5246
> 303-468-0377 FAX<<--GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!
> 
> On Sat Jan  7  8:04 , 'Dave Ernst' <shop at cccomm.net>
> sent:
> 
> >I had the same problem with this D I'm working on.
> What I finally did 
> >was to fake it. I drilled out a larger piece of
> tubing so the ID fit 
> >the OD of the gas line cut it to the length that
> originally protruded 
> >beyond the end of the nut and then used a ferrule
> on the original line. 
> >Can't tell the difference.
> >
> >Dave
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Bill Brueck" b2 at chooka.net>
> >To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'" 
> >antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> >Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 8:10 PM
> >Subject: [AJD] Deere fuel line technique...I need a
> nudge
> >
> >
> >>
> >> I'm working on my H again, chasing down the last
> seep in the fuel system.
> >> Thanks Ron and others, for the tip on Fuelube /
> EZTurn, that sealed 
> >> the valve right up and also got the needle seat
> to seal in the carb body.
> >>
> >> Then I noticed a little seep in the main fuel
> line.  Hey, no probs, 
> >> I'll just unsolder those glands off the ends,
> bend up some new 
> >> tubing, solder the glands on, and it would be
> good as new.
> >>
> >> One gland came right off and soldered onto the
> new line just fine.  
> >> But I can't get the other one apart.  On to the
> junk box, found 2 
> >> more glands with stubs of tubing in them.  Can't
> get one of those 
> >> loose either, and thought before I started on the
> last one I'd better 
> >> come up for air.
> >>
> >> Started with propane heat, then advanced to
> acetylene.  Get the 
> >> glands nice and red, have a place where I can get
> some decent pull 
> >> and a little twist on them, but no budge.
> >>
> >> Other than giving up being stubborn and paying
> Robert's $6.18 for new 
> >> ones (cripes, at that price I'm ashamed to admit
> I've spent a few 
> >> hours on this already...oh, well, doing things
> the smart way never 
> >> was a strong suit of mine...), anybody got a
> technique in your back 
> >> pocket that would help me here?
> >>
> >> And I've got nothing against Roberts, in case one
> wonders.  He's been 
> >> real helpful, and I even bought a carb for my AR
> from him a while 
> >> back.  It was a work of art, all painted with the
> brass plugs shined 
> >> and put on after the paint job, it was a work of
> art.  Kind of hate 
> >> to put fuel in.
> >>
> >> Thanks for help, once again!
> >>
> >> B²
> >>
> >> Bill Brueck (brick)
> >> Chatfield, MN, USA
> >>
> >> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than
> ignorance.
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Antique-johndeere mailing list
> >>
>
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/antique-johndeere
> >>
> >> 
> >
> >
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