[AJD] Re: fuel line technique...INFO

[greg at theoldtractorcompany.com]

First off, steel fuel line glands are still available from JD albeit at $9.75 a pop
Years ago we repro'd them in brass as they solder easier and are only $4.25
The nuts, in steel, also from JD are $3.40 but they can normally be reused. The 
problem we had was that on the earlier tractors, which I personally prefer-those from 
the 20's and 30's, the fuel line nuts were brass. So we made those in brass and they 
are $3.00 each
That being said, and correct me if I'm wrong Duane, Deere did on some fuel lines 
attach them with some sort of hydrogen brazing I think it was? They had had some 
problems with chaff fires on tractors at some point which caused the fuel lines to 
unsolder and pretty well fanned the fire and made things worse. Or so I was told. I 
also think that sometimes the solder is just nearly solid due to age and they 
fittings simply can't be removed

My two cents worth on yet ANOTHER beautiful 65+ degree day in Colorful Colorado!!

Greg







Greg Stephen
The Old Tractor Company
Stephen Equipment Company
PO Box 709
Franktown, CO 80116
303-663-5246
303-468-0377 FAX<<--GREAT WAY TO REACH ME!

On Sat Jan  7  8:04 , 'Dave Ernst' <shop at cccomm.net> sent:

>I had the same problem with this D I'm working on. What I finally did was to 
>fake it. I drilled out a larger piece of tubing so the ID fit the OD of the 
>gas line cut it to the length that originally protruded beyond the end of 
>the nut and then used a ferrule on the original line. Can't tell the 
>difference.
>
>Dave
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Bill Brueck" b2 at chooka.net>
>To: "'Antique John Deere mailing list'" 
>antique-johndeere at lists.antique-tractor.com>
>Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 8:10 PM
>Subject: [AJD] Deere fuel line technique...I need a nudge
>
>
>>
>> I'm working on my H again, chasing down the last seep in the fuel system.
>> Thanks Ron and others, for the tip on Fuelube / EZTurn, that sealed the
>> valve right up and also got the needle seat to seal in the carb body.
>>
>> Then I noticed a little seep in the main fuel line.  Hey, no probs, I'll
>> just unsolder those glands off the ends, bend up some new tubing, solder 
>> the
>> glands on, and it would be good as new.
>>
>> One gland came right off and soldered onto the new line just fine.  But I
>> can't get the other one apart.  On to the junk box, found 2 more glands 
>> with
>> stubs of tubing in them.  Can't get one of those loose either, and thought
>> before I started on the last one I'd better come up for air.
>>
>> Started with propane heat, then advanced to acetylene.  Get the glands 
>> nice
>> and red, have a place where I can get some decent pull and a little twist 
>> on
>> them, but no budge.
>>
>> Other than giving up being stubborn and paying Robert's $6.18 for new ones
>> (cripes, at that price I'm ashamed to admit I've spent a few hours on this
>> already...oh, well, doing things the smart way never was a strong suit of
>> mine...), anybody got a technique in your back pocket that would help me
>> here?
>>
>> And I've got nothing against Roberts, in case one wonders.  He's been real
>> helpful, and I even bought a carb for my AR from him a while back.  It was 
>> a
>> work of art, all painted with the brass plugs shined and put on after the
>> paint job, it was a work of art.  Kind of hate to put fuel in.
>>
>> Thanks for help, once again!
>>
>> B²
>>
>> Bill Brueck (brick)
>> Chatfield, MN, USA
>>
>> Confusion is a higher state of knowledge than ignorance.
>>
>>
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>>
>> 
>
>
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