[AT] Rivet how-to

[Larry D. Goss]

Thanks for chiming in, George.  I figured you would know more about it
than I do.  Just out of curiosity, is there a general "rule of thumb"
concerning hot vs. cold riveting related to size?

In looking through some references last night, I found that rivet
specifications are given differently for shop vs. field installation.
That came as news to me after trying to teach students something about
the process for better than 30 years.

FWIW, on another list I've been talking for a couple years about a
tractor restoration project I've been working on.  Part of it involved
the complete restoration of an MD-6 sickle mower bar -- everything from
the pitman outward.  That is the design that was purchased and modified
for use as a tractor-mounted mower back in the 40's.  One of the things
that has apparently disappeared from the market are the rivets that we
all used to have a supply of for making new pitman bars.  I finally
found a supply of them at Johnson Hardware in Orrville, Ohio, and
through a series of email threads and actions by members of that group I
now have the entire inventory.  This is just something to keep in mind
if you need to build an historically correct sickle bar for some reason.
Most people just forget about the accuracy and use bolts to hold the
straps to the wood, but I figured I would try to go for authenticity on
this.

BTW, not all pitman bar rivets are created equal.  The size (diameter)
changes depending on whether the hardware is designed for three vs. four
rivets on each end.  It's the larger size that go in the three rivet
design that I have (and that are apparently no longer available from
suppliers).  And Burgh's over in Economy, Pennsylvania, is THE place to
go to find replacement parts for the old horse-drawn equipment.

Come to think of it, you saw the original piece of equipment at Farmer's
place during Cubfest 2004.  That mower is now completely restored and
mounted on Ol' 191.  I finally got it all together at about the middle
of last year's show season.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of George Willer
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:47 AM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: RE: [AT] Rivet how-to


Larry,

In another life I operated a stationary pneumatic riveting hammer,
riveting
railroad jacks, heavy conveyor chain, and similar items.  This was, of
course done cold. Those rivets could be easily identified by the cross
pattern the tool left as it hammered and spun... somewhat the spokes in
a
wheel.  If such a tool were used, the unique pattern should still be
there.
This was in the early fifties, so details are somewhat murky.

More recent was rebuilding a badly damaged Cessna airplane.  Thousands
of
rivets headed against a bucking bar... a totally different operation.
(the
power is applied to the opposite end of the rivet.)

George Willer

> They could have been peened in place with a pneumatic gun and a dolly,
> but there also could have been spinning operation to do the conical
> heading.

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