[AT] OT - using pitchfork
Larry D. Goss
rlgoss at evansville.net
Mon Feb 6 21:53:21 PST 2006
No, you didn't play the Ampico. I just stood beside it and drooled for
a while and then crawled around under it to look at the sound board and
frame. For the tractor-oriented audience, that's comparable to "kickin'
tires" without hearing the engine run.
Tuning the Kimball to 440 probably enhanced the overtones and gave it
more brilliance. That 5 hertz probably makes less than a 1000-pound
difference on the load on the harp -- literally. When you're looking at
a total of 20 tons for all the strings together, that's only about 2.0%
to 2.5% increase. I regularly have to increase the tension on a whole
piano more than that just to get it back to where it was the last time I
tuned it.
Back in the 70's when I first started tuning, I got in a discussion with
one of the vice-president's of the university about transfer of learning
skills and I told him that I had to listen for exactly the same
undertone beats when I tune a tractor engine as I listen for when I tune
a piano. The comment caught him completely off-guard because he had no
idea that there were any similarities.
Larry
-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of George Willer
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 10:41 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: RE: [AT] OT - using pitchfork
Larry,
I'm not really sure due to CRS, but I think my 1916 Kimball was
originally
tuned to A-435. When I rebuilt it I tuned it to A-440. It's probably
way
off from correct, but it is, after all a honky tonk piano that sounds
good
to me when the added mandolin rail is used. :-) The Fischer-Ampico is
quite another matter. It's tuning is long overdue. Did I play it when
you
were here?
George Willer
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-
> bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Larry D. Goss
> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 10:22 PM
> To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
> Subject: RE: [AT] OT - using pitchfork
>
> Once a piano goes "out" significantly, it takes several tunings over
> time to get it back in tune so it will stay. Typically, four tunings
> over a two-year period will do it provided that it is located in an
> occupied house (so heat and humidity are reasonably constant) and not
> located in direct sunlight or against an outside wall. Most people
just
> won't put out that much money to put a 100-year old piano back in
shape.
> Chickerings were good, but... I warn customers ahead of time that if
> the piano is too far out of tune, all I can hope for is to make it
> better. But when I'm done, there will still be some inaccuracies in
the
> tuning. I try to bring the whole piano "up" at once, but the harp will
> still warp during the tuning process and cause notes that have already
> been tuned to go flat.
>
> Old pianos have a tendency to get corrosion on the strings, and that
> really affects the tone. I can polish the trebles (triple-string
notes)
> but there is nothing short of replacing the copper-wound bass strings
to
> bring their response back to original. The oxide that builds up on
them
> causes a loss of overtones and that makes the whole bass end sound
> muddy. It has the same effect as when the drummer for a rock band
fills
> his bass drum with terry towels from the bathroom. That changes a
tuned
> bass into a dull thud.
>
> Some tuners take the easy way out and just put an old piano back in
tune
> with itself rather than try to bring it up to pitch. That's also
> guaranteed to leave an unhappy customer because the overtones on the
> whole keyboard that give a piano its brilliance just won't be there.
>
> Enough already. This is more than you really wanted to know about
piano
> tuning.
>
> Larry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Mike Sloane
> Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 5:40 PM
> To: Antique tractor email discussion group
> Subject: Re: [AT] OT - using pitchfork
>
>
>
> Larry D. Goss wrote:
> > Tuning pin tightener.
> >
> > FWIW, this is a common problem in pianos. Tuning pins are only held
> in
> > by friction and when the maple dries out over time they loosen up
and
> > the piano will no longer hold its tune. There is a product made to
> > solve the problem. It's called Tuning Pin Tightener. Anybody can
> make
> > it though; it's a 50/50 mixture of alcohol and glycerin. I use
Solox
> > for the alcohol, but any source will do.
> We had an antique Chickoring upright with that problem, and that is
how
> the tuner fixed things. But it still wouldn't hold the tune. We had a
> hard time finding a home for that instrument, even giving it away. It
> must have weighed close to 1000 lbs and took 4 very big guys to move
it.
> >
> > If you have a really large gap in the handle, then apply some
Gorilla
> > Glue to the application before you insert the tang in the hole.
This
> is
> > an expanding weatherproof glue that can be used to reconstruct wood
> > after it has been miss cut. The more it's constrained while it's
> > setting, the more dense the resulting joint. Available at Home
Depot
> > and other such places.
> Yes, Gorilla glue is great stuff, but once you put it on a handle, you
> will never get it off if the handle breaks. Also, use rubber gloves
when
>
> working with the stuff, or it will turn your fingers black where it
> sits. (Don't ask me how I know this!)
>
> Mike
> >
> > Larry
> >
>
> --
> Mike Sloane
> Allamuchy NJ
> mikesloane at verizon.net
> Website: <www.geocities.com/mikesloane>
> Images: <www.fotki.com/mikesloane>
>
> Truth is not only violated by falsehood; it may be equally outraged by
> silence. -Henri Frederic Amiel philosopher and writer (1821-1881)
>
>
> --
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