[AT] Rivet how-to

[Larry D. Goss]

TELL ME ABOUT IT!  And the on-line stores aren't necessarily any better.

A good friend -- trained blacksmith with the mindset of an artist -- is
currently leaving town and moving to Pennsylvania.  I went over to his
place this week and he "bestowed" on me his collection of rivets.
They're all odd-ball stuff.  I only took the solid ones and let him take
the hollow ones with him.  That may have been a mistake, but it seemed
to make sense at the time.

He also "let me buy" his Cub Cadet 106.  This is the model that Herb
Metz looked for so long to use for building his mini Allis-G.  Well now
I happen to own one.  I don't really have a use for it, so I'll be
offering for sale shortly.

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of George Willer
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 3:13 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: RE: [AT] Rivet how-to

Larry,

Finding a source for rivets where you happen to be can be exasperating!
I
tried some time ago to get iron rivets from our one remaining hardware
store.  I was disappointed that didn't have an iron (or steel) rivet in
the
place.  The owner's attitude was "we don't sell many of those".  DUH!
Now
why on earth can't they sell what they don't have?  He seemed to think
the
newer pop rivets served all needs!  Can you imagine a pop rivet on a
sickle
bar section?

A long departed plumbing supply owner once told me "you  can't sell from
an
empty wagon"!  He did very well in his business.

George Willer

> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com [mailto:at-
> bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Larry D. Goss
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 1:47 PM
> To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
> Subject: RE: [AT] Rivet how-to
> 
> Thanks for chiming in, George.  I figured you would know more about it
> than I do.  Just out of curiosity, is there a general "rule of thumb"
> concerning hot vs. cold riveting related to size?
> 
> In looking through some references last night, I found that rivet
> specifications are given differently for shop vs. field installation.
> That came as news to me after trying to teach students something about
> the process for better than 30 years.
> 
> FWIW, on another list I've been talking for a couple years about a
> tractor restoration project I've been working on.  Part of it involved
> the complete restoration of an MD-6 sickle mower bar -- everything
from
> the pitman outward.  That is the design that was purchased and
modified
> for use as a tractor-mounted mower back in the 40's.  One of the
things
> that has apparently disappeared from the market are the rivets that we
> all used to have a supply of for making new pitman bars.  I finally
> found a supply of them at Johnson Hardware in Orrville, Ohio, and
> through a series of email threads and actions by members of that group
I
> now have the entire inventory.  This is just something to keep in mind
> if you need to build an historically correct sickle bar for some
reason.
> Most people just forget about the accuracy and use bolts to hold the
> straps to the wood, but I figured I would try to go for authenticity
on
> this.
> 
> BTW, not all pitman bar rivets are created equal.  The size (diameter)
> changes depending on whether the hardware is designed for three vs.
four
> rivets on each end.  It's the larger size that go in the three rivet
> design that I have (and that are apparently no longer available from
> suppliers).  And Burgh's over in Economy, Pennsylvania, is THE place
to
> go to find replacement parts for the old horse-drawn equipment.
> 
> Come to think of it, you saw the original piece of equipment at
Farmer's
> place during Cubfest 2004.  That mower is now completely restored and
> mounted on Ol' 191.  I finally got it all together at about the middle
> of last year's show season.
> 
> Larry
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
> [mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of George
Willer
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 8:47 AM
> To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
> Subject: RE: [AT] Rivet how-to
> 
> 
> Larry,
> 
> In another life I operated a stationary pneumatic riveting hammer,
> riveting
> railroad jacks, heavy conveyor chain, and similar items.  This was, of
> course done cold. Those rivets could be easily identified by the cross
> pattern the tool left as it hammered and spun... somewhat the spokes
in
> a
> wheel.  If such a tool were used, the unique pattern should still be
> there.
> This was in the early fifties, so details are somewhat murky.
> 
> More recent was rebuilding a badly damaged Cessna airplane.  Thousands
> of
> rivets headed against a bucking bar... a totally different operation.
> (the
> power is applied to the opposite end of the rivet.)
> 
> George Willer
> 
> > They could have been peened in place with a pneumatic gun and a
dolly,
> > but there also could have been spinning operation to do the conical
> > heading.
> 
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> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
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