[Farmall] Welding cast iron

[Johng]

Ah,

It is good to see a real technical response on here !   Chris probably even
knows what White Cast Iron is.

Doing Cast Iron isn't difficult if you have the basic metallurgical
knowledge of which cast iron it is and the basic savvy of which method is
best.  If you have a clean break, braze it.  If you have a ragged break,
grab the nickel.

I have old IH iron too.  One in my garage right now being restored that my
wife wants me to get the h$ll done and back over to the farm..........

Wives just don't have the love of the Old Red Beasts.........

By:
'Ol farm boy who is an engineer too......



-----Original Message-----
From: farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:farmall-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com]On Behalf Of Chris
Klossner
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 8:32 PM
To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
Subject: Re: [Farmall] Welding cast iron



  For attaching the steel ears to the cast brazing would work well. It
would also be the easiest to finish.  One would have to heat it up about
the same either way to weld it or to braze.  The property you  refereed
to cracking behind the weld is more of a heating problem.  When cast
iron cools slowly the carbon forms graphite between the iron which locks
together making cast iron some what rigid. Graphite is soft though and
does have some give to it.  When cast is cooled rapidly the graphite
does not have time to form. The result is cementite which is a much
harder form of carbon. By this process  the chilled iron plow shares
were made. Giving them a hard wearing surface.  A 12" monarch is a nice
size machine. More capacity than the modern equivalent size. The 30 I
have is a 1940's Witcomb. It is a little big for most every day things.
I also have a 42" LeBlonde and it is mostly for steam engine gearing and
clutch repairs or occasional flywheel.

  Chris Klossner
 http://home.att.net/~klossner/

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