[AT] tranny fluids

[Cecil Bearden]

I should have noted that the 8N had the tapered splined axle.  I think we 
fixed those by machininf off some of the hub so that it would go up farther 
on the axle splines.  Then washered up under the nut.

It worked...

Cecil in OKla
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cecil Bearden" <crbearden at copper.net>
To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:35 PM
Subject: Re: [AT] tranny fluids


>
> Ken There is a seal that lets you pack the wheel bearings with grease and 
> will seal the oil out.  Tractor supply used to have them.   Take off one 
> side cover from the transmission under the seat.  Preferably the one with 
> the dipstick.  When the oil is hot try to raise your mower and shine a 
> flashlight into the open hole and see if the oil is coming from above or 
> squirting from the pump below. If from above you need to rebuild the lift 
> cylinder.  If from below, you probably need to rebuild the valves.  If it 
> is the MF style of pump, you can get he Ball valves from TISCO for the 
> replacement TO-30 MF series and they will seal off the leaks great.
>
> Cecil in OKla
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ken Knierim" <ken.knierim at gmail.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" 
> <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 1:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] tranny fluids
>
>
>>
>> Not to split hairs here, but wasn't the N series designed and built in
>> Michigan? If they're specifiying a 90 wt mineral oil, one might jump
>> to the conclusion that it might work in their back yard... maybe not
>> all winter if you get a cold snap, but not a lot of folks are
>> generally plowing with an N-series when it's -20 or more.
>> My experience with a 9N in -20 and colder has been that yeah, they
>> need to warm up a bit before they work right (but then, so did I). We
>> used the Ford oil (came in a blue and white 5 gallon can) that was
>> recommended at the time and it worked.  (circa 1980, eastern Montana).
>>
>> Now that I have an 8N in AZ, I can tell when it gets hot because the
>> lift won't pick up the mower on the back very well (revving the engine
>> helps). There's been some good information here about what I need to
>> do to fix it when/if I ever get it apart. My question is: how hard
>> will it be to get the pump out and rebuild it? And is there anything
>> that can be done to stop the oil from leaking onto the brakes? Every
>> N-series I've been on had little or no brakes.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Ken in AZ
>>
>> On 8/22/06, Chris Britton <c.britton at worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>>> Not all of us live in michigan.. some of us live in warmer climates.. 
>>> like
>>> florida.
>>>
>>> I've seen many trannies that won't leak on 90wt.. But will leak on 
>>> 134d.. go
>>> figure.
>>>
>>> Yes.. climate will effectyour oil choice.. same as engine oil..
>>>
>>> Soundguy
>>>
>>> >From: "JEFFREY PILBEAM" <j.pilbeam at verizon.net>
>>> >Yes I am definitely suggesting it. I worked for a Ford dealer for 12 
>>> >years
>>> >and the best 8N tech I know Highly recommends 134 or equivalent in the
>>> >2n,8n,9n etc hyd system. Especiallly here in Michigan. Maybe a much 
>>> >hoteer
>>> >climate 90w would be fine. Buit 90w don't flow up here in the Winter.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> AT mailing list
>>> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
>> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
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> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
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