[AT] tranny fluids

[Ken Knierim]

Thanks! Not sure how to tell which kind of pump it is though. I think
the S/N indicated it's a '48 or '49 8N. Never had the rear open on
this one... it usually works so I haven't wanted to fix it. :)

Ken in AZ

On 8/22/06, Cecil Bearden <crbearden at copper.net> wrote:
> Ken There is a seal that lets you pack the wheel bearings with grease and
> will seal the oil out.  Tractor supply used to have them.   Take off one
> side cover from the transmission under the seat.  Preferably the one with
> the dipstick.  When the oil is hot try to raise your mower and shine a
> flashlight into the open hole and see if the oil is coming from above or
> squirting from the pump below. If from above you need to rebuild the lift
> cylinder.  If from below, you probably need to rebuild the valves.  If it is
> the MF style of pump, you can get he Ball valves from TISCO for the
> replacement TO-30 MF series and they will seal off the leaks great.
>
> Cecil in OKla
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ken Knierim" <ken.knierim at gmail.com>
> To: "Antique tractor email discussion group" <at at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 1:37 PM
> Subject: Re: [AT] tranny fluids
>
>
> >
> > Not to split hairs here, but wasn't the N series designed and built in
> > Michigan? If they're specifiying a 90 wt mineral oil, one might jump
> > to the conclusion that it might work in their back yard... maybe not
> > all winter if you get a cold snap, but not a lot of folks are
> > generally plowing with an N-series when it's -20 or more.
> > My experience with a 9N in -20 and colder has been that yeah, they
> > need to warm up a bit before they work right (but then, so did I). We
> > used the Ford oil (came in a blue and white 5 gallon can) that was
> > recommended at the time and it worked.  (circa 1980, eastern Montana).
> >
> > Now that I have an 8N in AZ, I can tell when it gets hot because the
> > lift won't pick up the mower on the back very well (revving the engine
> > helps). There's been some good information here about what I need to
> > do to fix it when/if I ever get it apart. My question is: how hard
> > will it be to get the pump out and rebuild it? And is there anything
> > that can be done to stop the oil from leaking onto the brakes? Every
> > N-series I've been on had little or no brakes.
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > Ken in AZ
> >
> > On 8/22/06, Chris Britton <c.britton at worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> >> Not all of us live in michigan.. some of us live in warmer climates..
> >> like
> >> florida.
> >>
> >> I've seen many trannies that won't leak on 90wt.. But will leak on 134d..
> >> go
> >> figure.
> >>
> >> Yes.. climate will effectyour oil choice.. same as engine oil..
> >>
> >> Soundguy
> >>
> >> >From: "JEFFREY PILBEAM" <j.pilbeam at verizon.net>
> >> >Yes I am definitely suggesting it. I worked for a Ford dealer for 12
> >> >years
> >> >and the best 8N tech I know Highly recommends 134 or equivalent in the
> >> >2n,8n,9n etc hyd system. Especiallly here in Michigan. Maybe a much
> >> >hoteer
> >> >climate 90w would be fine. Buit 90w don't flow up here in the Winter.
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> AT mailing list
> >> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
> >> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > AT mailing list
> > Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
> > http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>
> _______________________________________________
> AT mailing list
> Remembering Our Friend Cecil Monson 11-4-2005
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/at
>