[Farmall] F-20 questions
Karl Olmstead
olmstead at ridgenet.net
Tue Aug 1 08:23:32 PDT 2006
I still offer the F4 magneto CD at no charge. It does have a comprehensive
section on installing and timing the mag to your tractor. I recommend using
your finger over sparkplug hole to find the compression stroke, then
watching the piston rise using a flashlight peeking into the sparkplug hole.
Trying to decipher the multiple marks on the dirty, rusty flywheel is a
pain. If the F-20's flywheel is anything like the F-12's, it has four
different marks on it, some of which are there to verify correct camshaft
installation. Quite confusing.
It's best to align the metal contact on the magneto's distributor rotor with
the #1 spark plug position by turning the mag backwards... counter clockwise
if you're looking at the magneto's drive coupling. That way the impulse
won't latch and wind up the impulse spring. Or you can hold the magneto
upside down, or you can lift the impulse defeating latch if your mag has
one... but turning the mag backwards is easiest.
Regardless of how you install the mag, you need to do as Bob recommended..
turn the engine over very slowly and verify that all four sparkplugs fire
when their pistons are near TDC on their compression strokes. Again, a
thumb over the sparkplug hole will tell you when the compression (vs
exhaust) stroke is beginning, and you can then watch the piston via the
sparkplug hole, or the crankshaft thru the handholes.
As was stated earlier, the F4 magneto retards as the points cover is twisted
CCW (lever rising above horizontal), and then it shuts off the mag.
Down/clockwise advances the timing.
I highly recommend rebuilding the mag soon. If it hasn't been serviced for
thirty years, the grease in the bearings is bound to be pretty dry.
Squirting light (10-wt) oil into the impulse lubricating port is a good
idea. IHC's magneto manual is online at:
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-5035%20Service%20Manual%20Magnetos/index.html
You will probably have to reconnect the above address if your (or my) mail
program breaks it into two lines.
-Karl
-------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Pitts" <mgomaize at yahoo.com>
To: "Farmall/IHC mailing list" <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Farmall] F-20 questions
> For manuals, I have bought mine at Binder Books. Whatever you do, do not
> buy Jensales. Very poor quality (but honorable people as they took them
> back with no problems). I just bought a manual on CD for my kids Farmall
> A from http://www.ihaveadotcom.com/ A few small errors but I am
> impressed. You get a pdf file of the manual that is well indexed. But he
> does not offer F-Style yet.
>
> For magneto questions, also contact Karl Olmstead. He has a CD that he
> authored on rebuilding the mag, as well as the finer points of
> installation. Not sure if he is charging for the CD or not these days.
> Olmstead at ridgenet.net
>
> For parts, I have three main sources:
>
> 1. Nebraska Cowman - I use for all used parts and I think he has limited
> new supplies. He is always offering advice on the Farmall forum on
> www.ytmag.com. He sells many parts on ebay (store format) and has a
> website. http://www.nebraskacowman.com/ He always has any parts I ask
> for. howster at nebnet.net
>
> 2. The Fordson House - www.thefordsonhouse.com Despite the name, this
> business in upper Michigan is an excellent source for many F style parts.
>
> 3. Rice Equipment - can't beat the selection, but no e-mail or web site
>
>
>
> For the mag, the prior advice about finding TDC on #1 and making sure the
> mag is at 2:30 at that point is all you need for proper timing. Very easy
> and foolproof. If you have to resort to fine tuning by changing the
> timing discs, I would opt to time it so it fires at or just after TDC
> until you get good comfort with how it runs. Accidently setting it too
> far before TDC can result in some nasty train wrecks between the crank and
> your arm. Also did not see the holding of the crank mentioned. Make sure
> your thumb is on the same side as your fingers, otherwise you could wind
> up with a broken thumb if it backfires.
>
> If you want to be entertained by a newbie's trek with "restoring" and
> F-20, visit my site linked below.
> ------------------------------------------
> Tony Pitts
> Ann Arbor, MI
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/pitts/mbf
> ------------------------------------------
> Hudson Mills Old Power Club
> 15th Annual Show June 2-4, 2006
> Dexter, MI
> http://www.hudsonmills.org
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: John Hall <jthall at worldnet.att.net>
> To: Farmall/IHC mailing list <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com>
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006 7:42:20 PM
> Subject: Re: [Farmall] F-20 questions
>
>
> Unless I'm missing some messages, a question such as yours used to yield
> far
> more info than Bob and I posted. Everbody gone on vacation????
>
> John Hall
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
> --0-1615424321-1154401482=:49826
> Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
>
> <html><head><style type="text/css"><!-- DIV
> {margin:0px} --></style></head><body><div style="font-family:lucida
> console, sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><DIV></DIV>
> <DIV>For manuals, I have bought mine at Binder Books. Whatever you
> do, do not buy Jensales. Very poor quality (but honorable people as
> they took them back with no problems). I just bought a manual on CD
> for my kids Farmall A from <A
> href="http://www.ihaveadotcom.com/">http://www.ihaveadotcom.com/</A>
> A few small errors but I am impressed. You get a pdf file of the
> manual that is well indexed. But he does not offer F-Style
> yet.</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>For magneto questions, also contact Karl Olmstead. He has a CD
> that he authored on rebuilding the mag, as well as the finer points of
> installation. Not sure if he is charging for the CD or not these
> days. <U><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY:
> Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New
> Roman'"><A
> href="mailto:Olmstead at ridgenet.net">Olmstead at ridgenet.net</A></SPAN></U><SPAN
> style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;
> mso-bidi-font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns =
> "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"
> /><o:p></o:p></SPAN><BR> </DIV>
> <DIV>For parts, I have three main sources:</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>1. Nebraska Cowman - I use for all used parts and I think he
> has limited new supplies. He is always offering advice on the
> Farmall forum on <A href="http://www.ytmag.com">www.ytmag.com</A>.
> He sells many parts on ebay (store format) and has a website. <A
> href="http://www.nebraskacowman.com/">http://www.nebraskacowman.com/</A>
> He always has any parts I ask for. <A
> href="mailto:howster at nebnet.net">howster at nebnet.net</A></DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>2. The Fordson House - <A
> href="http://www.thefordsonhouse.com">www.thefordsonhouse.com</A>
> Despite the name, this business in upper Michigan is an excellent source
> for many F style parts.</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>3. Rice Equipment - can't beat the selection, but no e-mail or
> web site</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>For the mag, the prior advice about finding TDC on #1 and making
> sure the mag is at 2:30 at that point is all you need for proper
> timing. Very easy and foolproof. If you have to resort to fine
> tuning by changing the timing discs, I would opt to time it so it fires at
> or just after TDC until you get good comfort with how it runs.
> Accidently setting it too far before TDC can result in some nasty train
> wrecks between the crank and your arm. Also did not see the holding
> of the crank mentioned. Make sure your thumb is on the same side as
> your fingers, otherwise you could wind up with a broken thumb if it
> backfires.</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>If you want to be entertained by a newbie's trek with "restoring" and
> F-20, visit my site linked
> below.</DIV>------------------------------------------<BR>Tony
> Pitts<BR>Ann Arbor,
> MI<BR>http://www.oldengine.org/members/pitts/mbf<BR>------------------------------------------<BR>Hudson
> Mills Old Power Club<BR>15th Annual Show June 2-4, 2006<BR>Dexter,
> MI<BR>http://www.hudsonmills.org
> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: lucida console,
> sans-serif"><BR><BR>
> <DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york,
> times, serif">----- Original Message ----<BR>From: John Hall
> <jthall at worldnet.att.net><BR>To: Farmall/IHC mailing list
> <farmall at lists.antique-tractor.com><BR>Sent: Monday, July 31, 2006
> 7:42:20 PM<BR>Subject: Re: [Farmall] F-20 questions<BR><BR>
> <DIV>Unless I'm missing some messages, a question such as yours used to
> yield far <BR>more info than Bob and I posted. Everbody gone on
> vacation????<BR><BR>John Hall
> <BR><BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Farmall
> mailing list<BR><A
> href="http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall"
> target=_blank>http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall</A></DIV></DIV><BR></DIV></div></body></html>
> _______________________________________________
> Farmall mailing list
> http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall
>
More information about the AT
mailing list