[Farmall] Only Slightly off topic: Shop and Storagebuilding forFarmall Tractors

Thu Apr 13 07:22:12 PDT 2006

Ivan,  Thanks much....6" of gravel, I will keep that in mind.   Vapor 
barrier and bubble wrap...curious as to why the bubble wrap and is there a 
particular kind.  Sound like you have a pretty good set up.

Larry

Larry Hardesty
Kearney, Nebraska 68849-2240
308-865-8535
308-865-8722 fax
hardestyll at unk.edu

"ivan" <ivancou at alltel.net> 
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04/12/2006 07:36 PM
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Re: [Farmall] Only Slightly off topic: Shop and Storagebuilding forFarmall 
Tractors

Larry ,  Last year was the first winter in the addition .  It was built to
store suff (camper,72 chevy,tractors) as opposed to a work area .But I
wanted the option of being able to heat it if need be .  It is set up in
zones , one being warm all the time with the bathroom ( water line is 
under
it ) . No problems with cracking .   Concrete is fiber reinenforced ,not
that that means didle because if its gonna crack it will .But it is much
easier to work than mesing with wire . One thing , of all the cement we 
have
poured around here I have only had one slab crack , that one was on an
uneven grade and not much gravel under the one end  . I attribute it to 
not
enough gravel for it to float on .  I dont pour anything now without 6 " 
of
gravel .
I took a different aproach to installing the lines . Plastic vapor barrier
over the gravel . Double bubble over that , covered with sheets of tin .
Same type used for the building ,except wrapper grade .  Laid face down ,
pipe laid into the channels and held in with conduit clamps every 2 ft or 
so
. However the ends of metal were held back about 12 " from the outside 
walls
to make looping the ends easier. .   As the cement was poured we were able
to run over it with no problems .
The water is heated with an outside boiler with radiators in the shop and
house . Really cold days I turn the garage off and only pump the heat into
the house with the exception of the bathroom where the water line s are .
Slow to heat up but very comfortable after and will stay warm for quite
awhile . I confess I got lazy an went without a fire for a couple days and
never had the water freeze.   I usually use about 4 ton of coal & a couple
cords of wood per year , didnt see much change .
I dont know of any maintence requirements . I however use antifreeze 
instead
of plain water in the boiler , its kinda costly but I dont worry about 
going
away in the winter and having anything freeze .  With the price of oil 
going
up I imagine the plastic pipe is too .  But it was worth every $ in 
comfort
. In fact I have 10 ' ceilings in the woodshop and I'm seriously looking 
at
pouring another 4"of concrete on top of the floor with plastic in it .
Ivan

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Ivan,  Thanks much....6" of
gravel, I will keep that in mind.   Vapor barrier and bubble wrap...curious
as to why the bubble wrap and is there a particular kind.  Sound like
you have a pretty good set up.
 
 Larry
 
 Larry Hardesty 
Kearney, Nebraska 68849-2240 
308-865-8535 
308-865-8722 fax 
hardestyll at unk.edu
 
 
 
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<td width=40%>"ivan" <ivancou at alltel.net>

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<td>Re: [Farmall] Only Slightly off topic:
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 <tt>Larry ,  Last year was the first winter in the
addition .  It was built to 
store suff (camper,72 chevy,tractors) as opposed to a work area .But I 
wanted the option of being able to heat it if need be .  It is set
up in 
zones , one being warm all the time with the bathroom ( water line is under 
it ) . No problems with cracking .   Concrete is fiber reinenforced
,not 
that that means didle because if its gonna crack it will .But it is much 
easier to work than mesing with wire . One thing , of all the cement we
have 
poured around here I have only had one slab crack , that one was on an 
uneven grade and not much gravel under the one end  . I attribute
it to not 
enough gravel for it to float on .  I dont pour anything now without
6 " of 
gravel . 
I took a different aproach to installing the lines . Plastic vapor barrier 
over the gravel . Double bubble over that , covered with sheets of tin
. 
Same type used for the building ,except wrapper grade .  Laid face
down , 
pipe laid into the channels and held in with conduit clamps every 2 ft
or so 
. However the ends of metal were held back about 12 " from the outside
walls 
to make looping the ends easier. .   As the cement was poured we were
able 
to run over it with no problems . 
The water is heated with an outside boiler with radiators in the shop and 
house . Really cold days I turn the garage off and only pump the heat into 
the house with the exception of the bathroom where the water line s are
. 
Slow to heat up but very comfortable after and will stay warm for quite 
awhile . I confess I got lazy an went without a fire for a couple days
and 
never had the water freeze.   I usually use about 4 ton of coal &
a couple 
cords of wood per year , didnt see much change . 
I dont know of any maintence requirements . I however use antifreeze instead 
of plain water in the boiler , its kinda costly but I dont worry about
going 
away in the winter and having anything freeze .  With the price of
oil going 
up I imagine the plastic pipe is too .  But it was worth every $ in
comfort 
. In fact I have 10 ' ceilings in the woodshop and I'm seriously looking
at 
pouring another 4"of concrete on top of the floor with plastic in
it . 
Ivan 
 
 
 
_______________________________________________ 
Farmall mailing list 
http://www.antique-tractor.com/mailman/listinfo/farmall 
</tt>