[AT] Economy Jim Dandy

[Larry D. Goss]

Well, just remember to keep working from left to right on the
disassembly, Bob.  The first thing out has to be the set screw in the
end of the interlock/detent area and then you can work your way right
across the whole mechanism.  Everything (including the Welsh plugs)
should be reusable.  Once you get the second/third detent ball out, you
can drive the roll pin out of the fork.  Then you can drive the rail
toward the rear (using a punch in the roll pin hole) to remove the Welsh
plug. 

I rehab the Welsh plugs (expansion plugs) by pressing an old bearing
ball against the plug to make it spherical again.  A 1/2" socket makes a
good anvil.  I do this process in a machinist's vise rather than to
pound on it with a hammer.  Setting the plugs again is a snap.  Just
coat the seat in the end of the casting with silicone sealant, drop the
plug back in the hole, and tap it with a fairly large punch and hammer
until the plug is nearly flat again.

BTW, inspect the index pin in the shifter tower when you have the lever
out.  The pin is supposed to be round, not elliptical.  A transmission
of your vintage should have a hardened pin in it, so it probably is OK.

Larry  

-----Original Message-----
From: at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com
[mailto:at-bounces at lists.antique-tractor.com] On Behalf Of Bob McNitt
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 6:35 PM
To: 'Antique tractor email discussion group'
Subject: RE: [AT] Economy Jim Dandy

>There are two different designs on the shifter mechanism

Mine is the newer style, and thanks for the info, Larry. It'll save me
time and surprises. Mike, I can easily understand why you went the
"quick repair" cut-out route first. And also why you wound up
replacing the shifter. Popping that cap and putting the gears back
into neutral would wear pretty thing after a multiple times of having
to do it.

Bob




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